Removing Freewheel with hosed up tool interface - thoughts?

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09-20-12 | 10:13 AM

#51

Grand Bois

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From: Pinole, CA, USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by noglider

I recommend that if you want to respond in this thread, don't read anyone else's responses. This way, you can write your response without noticing that it duplicates previous responses.

It is mildly annoying and the same people do it all the time.

09-24-12 | 09:27 AM

#52

squirtdad

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From: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca

Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, 86 De Rosa Pro, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque

the Pastor Bob method worked. broke one pin punch. and it takes forever. the angle is awkward and even when after the intial movement started I needed to keep using the punch until the very end. YMMV

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09-24-12 | 10:26 AM

#53

rhm

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From: NJ, NYC, LI

Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...

I got mine off, too. I tried to disassemble the freewheel as recommended above, but my pin wrench (an old VAR one) wouldn't reach them (they're pretty far recessed into the freewheel). I took the axle out abnd dremeled the freewheel body to make the notches deeper and sharper, and was eventually able to break it free with the freewheel puller.

Whew!

09-24-12 | 10:45 AM

#54

Captain Blight

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From: Minneapolis

Bikes: -1973 Motobecane Mirage -197? Velosolex L'Etoile -'71 Raleigh Super Course

I *do* feel compelled to point out that 'Tipo' simply translates as 'type.' The hubs are Nuovo Tipos, "New Type."

Thank you for your consideration.

09-24-12 | 12:25 PM

#55

tiger1964

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From: Maryland, USA

Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Vitus

One more idea. I've seen a plumbing tool for gripping the INSIDE of a pipe and turning it (wish I had one when I re-plumbed 14 radiators, I tell you), hex head on a shaft with two slightly-non-concentric knurled cylinders that "jam" against the inside of the pipe for grip. No idea if any of the available sizes match the inside of the freewheel area inboard of the removal-tool area or if there's enough depth to let this tool worth, but I thought I'd toss it out there.

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09-24-12 | 12:47 PM

#56

JohnDThompson

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From: Appleton WI

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rhm

I got mine off, too. I tried to disassemble the freewheel as recommended above, but my pin wrench (an old VAR one) wouldn't reach them (they're pretty far recessed into the freewheel).

Did you remove the outer cog (or two) before you tried the pin tool? The Regina freewheel body was originally designed for a 4-cog cluster, so it is quite narrow. As five, six and even seven cogs became common, the face became quite recessed below the level of the cogs.

09-24-12 | 01:41 PM

#57

pastorbobnlnh

Freewheel Medic

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From: An Island on the Coast of GA!

Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales & a Super Pro Aero Lotus (* Ed.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by squirtdad

the Pastor Bob method worked. broke one pin punch. and it takes forever. the angle is awkward and even when after the intial movement started I needed to keep using the punch until the very end. YMMV

I took apart a freewheel which came from Hawaii over the weekend and I needed to use the punch to turn the retaining ring all the way to the end as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhm

I got mine off, too. I tried to disassemble the freewheel as recommended above, but my pin wrench (an old VAR one) wouldn't reach them (they're pretty far recessed into the freewheel). I took the axle out and dremeled the freewheel body to make the notches deeper and sharper, and was eventually able to break it free with the freewheel puller.

Whew!

Rudi, very few freewheels I've worked on would have allowed a pin spanner to remove the retaining ring. They are just too tight.

So two different C&V members used two different methods to remove stuck freewheels!

Bravos all around!

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnDThompson

This is one reason why I remove cogs first. The second reason is to be able to clean the cogs completely.

Sachs freewheels are a good example of a deep face under the top cog, which is true of their 6, 7 and 8 speed models.

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09-24-12 | 02:45 PM

#58

repechage

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Joined: Jun 2006

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Mayer

I like this. However, has anyone tested if the hub shell would twist/distort on the old narrow-waisted rear hub shells?

Your plan is immobilize the non-drive side flange. And you are applying the usual freewheel-removing torque to the drive-side. Will this distort or even break the hub shell at the waist?

A hub shell can twist up if one just laces up the off drive side and hopes to remove a freewheel.