Originally Posted by ericm979

24/28 is probably ok for you on those rims. But rider weight is not the only factor when it comes to stress on wheels. The roads you ride, how well you float or hop the bike over potholes or similar obstacles, and how you climb also make a difference. If like me you do a lot of climbing out of the saddle and rock the bike when you stand you'll be harder on rear wheels. I'm in the mid 140s and build my training wheels 28h rear, because I break a lot of rear spokes. I break way fewer now that I am building my own wheels.

I am not a fan of the AC205 rear hub flange spacing. To make the tension less uneven they move the NDS flange in. That works but it makes the wheel less stiff laterally. On the AC350 wheels I have I can bounce the rear rim off the brake pads at will when I stand, and it's built 32h. The AC rear hub preload adjustment goes out of adjustment periodically and it's a bit tricky to adjust correctly.

I don't like DTs flange spacing either, except their problem is a narrow DS flange spacing. That's so they can accept a Campy freehub without too many mods. But it makes the tension difference too great. So the NDS spokes are too lose, and they break.

I recommend the White Ind hubs. They have decent flange spacing on both sides. They have excellent bearings and the preload is easily adjusted IF you read the manual.

If you want cheaper hubs, the BHS hubs are pretty good, especially considering the price. The DS flange spacing is narrow so I often build them with the DS spokes laced 1x heads in to increase the bracing angle. That may not work if you're running cassettes with a small last cog and Sram as the cage sticks out a little farther than Shimanos.