Originally Posted by
ebgbz
I'm not sure how to respond to all of the responses. It sounds like everyone is saying the same things. What I didn't make clear and should have is that I am changing th fork and will need to cut the steerer tube. I know that 10mm or 20mm doesn't sound like much but when coupled with a 25deg riser stem that it's the hossle inserted the required 2.5" by cutting the steerer to accomodate a tasller spacer I would effectively raise the bar 3/8" w/a 10mm spacer and 3/4' with 20mm. If I cut the tube to accomodate a taller spacer Wouldn't I overcome the thread deficiencies and have the lock not with the proper amount of engagment?
ebgbz; Ok, I think I understand; You agree to try to write better and the rest of us will try to read better [
! That should work.
Now to the revised problem; Unless you have a need to maintain a classic & vintage look...Since you plan to get a new fork, I wouldn't even look back at a threaded configuration. Just switch to a threadless headset and threadless stem as part of the fork up and get on with it. Cut the new steerer to fit whatever height you want the cross bar to be at. I did a fork change about 3 weeks back and the parts were cheap as was the fork... and given that the steerer is un-threaded it is a lot stronger. And its now down to a couple of hex keys instead of trying to find the various wrenches to snug things up with...
Hope that helps. Post or PM if there are any able-to-do gaps remaining...and the secret handshake is that if you get help here that actually helps for real...kinda should post a couple of pix of the before and after.
/K