Old 08-09-13 | 05:39 PM
  #11  
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Rich Gibson
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Annandale, VA

Bikes: Fuji Rubaix 1.0

Originally Posted by big john
Like I said earlier, I toe-out a great deal on the right side. When I started riding as an adult, I used "touring" shoes. These were stiff under the ball of the foot and had a very narrow heel. As I put a lot of miles on them I could see a wear mark on the shoe showing me where my foot needed to be.
When I switched to clipless I had to drill my own holes in the soles to mount the cleats because of my massive toe-out. Finally, I had a machinist make me a pair of "kneesavers" before they were available on the market and I could go back to using standard mounting holes in shoes.

I have used SPD mountain bike shoes and pedals on the road bike but in my experience the SPD cleats don't have enough adjustment to get the amount of toe-out I need.
I haven't tried Speedplay pedals but I hear they have a lot of potential toe-out.

So I use extreme toe-out adjustment with Kneesavers and some shoes require shims under the ball of my right foot. At 205 pounds and climbing at least 300,000 feet per year my knees are still happy.
I'm confused a bit. I understand re drilling the attachment points for the shoes to compensate for extreme toe-out (rotating the right shoe clockwise as you look down). However, after looking at the kneesavers it's clear they are spacers which move the pedal away from the crank. How does this help if your attachment point is further out but the angle is back again closer to the axis of the bike? (the shoe rotates back counter-clockwise.)

Rich
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