Originally Posted by
big john
When I drilled the shoes I was using the old Time pedals which had enough adjustment to get the toe-out I need, but my heels hit the crankarm, so I drilled to move the cleat toward the inside/arch side of the shoe to get the heel further away. When I started using the spacers I didn't need to drill anymore.
Over the years I have also found certain cranksets have more clearence than others as do certain frames. I had a Cannondale CAAD5 frame and my right heel hit the chainstay and polished the paint off of it. I have a Gunnar Sport and I have never hit the stay on that frame, but it has a longer wheelbase and thin stays.
I have a Seven Axiom frame with a Fulcrum racing crank and the edge around the center hole of the crank is slicing off the inside of the heel of my shoe, little by little.
I was sprinting on an old touring bike with clips and straps and my heel got hung up on the top side of the crank and I almost fell. It ain't easy being me.
Looking at the pictures of the toe clips I remembered I used to modify the clips, too. I used Christophe XXL Clips and drilled holes to mount them further to the outside of the flat pedals, my knees couldn't stand it if my feet were straight ahead, and I bent and reshaped the clips to provide more room for my size 13s. That was more than 20 years ago.
I feel your pain, lol.
I've had to mill the slots longer on the old slotted cleats for caged quill pedals to get them angled enough. And I've had to grind the slots wider on the bottom of the old Avocet 20 touring shoes too. I use plastic toe clips with different length homemade aluminum spacers so they'll angle out. My Shimano 105 crankarm looks like I've taken a belt sander to it on the right side. That's why I'm leery of investing in clipless just yet.