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Old 02-03-14 | 08:11 PM
  #51  
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rekmeyata
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: NE Indiana

Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS

Originally Posted by Cougrrcj
I've never had a problem with my good old aluminum Zefal HP (the 70s version) direct-to-valvestem frame pump. I've had one on my Fuji since '76! Yes, it does take a bit of effort to get to 105psi, but I'm still riding on 27x1-1/8 (that's 28mm) tires. BUT from home I either use an air compressor or a floor pump. I only use the frame pump if I have a flat on the road. The trick I've learned over the years is to use my off hand to hold the head of the pump AND I wrap a couple of fingers around the spoke(s) near the valve stem. I've NEVER torn a stem that way...
Your method is the correct way, I've torn mine either, but you and I are from a different time, younger riders don't know this stuff, add to that the fact the tube manufactures have removed the reinforcement grommet they put behind the stem to keep it from tearing and you got the younger generation ripping their stems. I too have a couple of direct connect pumps, one is a (now retired) frame pump, and the other two are minis and I have yet to tear a valve but I use them the way you mentioned. And the nut that comes with some presta tubes is completely useless which is why some tubes are threadless because they know they don't need the nut, and since tubes don't need the nut then why use threaded stems if the threads will make the rubber grommet in a pump to wear out faster, so they make smooth stems.
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