Originally Posted by
jdswitters
I had this problem for a while every time I had a flat on my 2010 torker graduate. It is an iterative process and works best if you get everything lined up in second and then go through all the gears and back to second, check the adjustment and go through the gears again until the pin is a bit off. this may take up to 5 or 6 times to get it to shift right while on the bike. After about two years it became much easier to adjust. I have been putting a bit of chain oil on the pin when I lube. Dont know if this has helped or not.
Good luck.
I have the same bike and took it to a bike shop. The wheel kept coming loose and this was throwing the shifing off. I don't remember what he told me but I think he said something to the effect the following. (I copied this from the Sturmey Archer instruction manual)
4. Fit the lock-washers (6)domed nuts (12) or hex nuts (8) or flange nuts (13)
on the axle. Screw the nuts finger tight.
5. Fit brake arm into brake arm clip (14) with nut (14A) and bolt (14B). Do not
tighten at this point.
Locate the lock-washer (6)fulcrum lever (7)/(15) and guide nut (16) or hex
nut (8) and guide pulley set (9), Do not tighten nuts at this point. Align the
wheel, tension the chain and ensure the fulcrum lever (7)/(15) is parallel with
the chainstay.
7. Tighten both axle nuts to 28Nm and the brake arm clip (14) nut to 7Nm
All this has to be done before you start working on the adjuster. Now you know why I don't ride that bike anymore!