Adjusting a S-A 5 speed ?
#1
Adjusting a S-A 5 speed ?
We've a Sturmey-Archer 5 speed (2012 model) on one of our bikes and I'm having a dickens of a time adjusting it. I started with getting the indicator line just barely visible. Generally all works well except 3rd which skips, particularly when going from 2nd to 3rd but sometimes also from 4th to 3rd. I loosened the adjuster a bit (indicator line is just barely not visible now) but that didn't change things. I've fiddled with it back and forth and can't seem to find any way to get it to reliably hit all 5 gears.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 848
Likes: 21
From: Fort Collins CO
Bikes: Kona Dew, Kona Ute, Salsa Timberjack, Salsa Fargo, New belgium brewery cruisers-2014 and 2009 and 2007
I had this problem for a while every time I had a flat on my 2010 torker graduate. It is an iterative process and works best if you get everything lined up in second and then go through all the gears and back to second, check the adjustment and go through the gears again until the pin is a bit off. this may take up to 5 or 6 times to get it to shift right while on the bike. After about two years it became much easier to adjust. I have been putting a bit of chain oil on the pin when I lube. Dont know if this has helped or not.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#6
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
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From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
I have not found the Sturmey Archer adjustment instructions to be very helpful, but the principle is pretty simple. In the highest gear, the cable should be completely relaxed, but tight enough that as soon as you start moving the shifter, the whole cable, including the indicator chain, should start moving.
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#7
Thanks all. I was really hoping to avoid the iterative process... iterative process... iterative process... iterative process... iterative process... Oh well. I'll play with it tonight and see what happens.
#8
I had one of these and it did this for months, I was constantly adjusting. Finally I brought it to the shop where I bought the wheel, and they couldn't get it right either. They replaced the hub internals under warranty. Shortly after that, I sold the bike. Fast forward almost a year--I ran into the guy I sold it to, and told me he had to have the hub internals replaced again. From my experience, these SA 5 speed hubs are really unreliable.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,141
Likes: 12
From: New Jersey
I had this problem for a while every time I had a flat on my 2010 torker graduate. It is an iterative process and works best if you get everything lined up in second and then go through all the gears and back to second, check the adjustment and go through the gears again until the pin is a bit off. this may take up to 5 or 6 times to get it to shift right while on the bike. After about two years it became much easier to adjust. I have been putting a bit of chain oil on the pin when I lube. Dont know if this has helped or not.
Good luck.
Good luck.
4. Fit the lock-washers (6)domed nuts (12) or hex nuts (8) or flange nuts (13)
on the axle. Screw the nuts finger tight.
5. Fit brake arm into brake arm clip (14) with nut (14A) and bolt (14B). Do not
tighten at this point.
Locate the lock-washer (6)fulcrum lever (7)/(15) and guide nut (16) or hex
nut (8) and guide pulley set (9), Do not tighten nuts at this point. Align the
wheel, tension the chain and ensure the fulcrum lever (7)/(15) is parallel with
the chainstay.
7. Tighten both axle nuts to 28Nm and the brake arm clip (14) nut to 7Nm
All this has to be done before you start working on the adjuster. Now you know why I don't ride that bike anymore!
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DahonDude
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11-15-17 07:12 AM






