Originally Posted by
fietsbob
buy a whole replacement headset to get all the parts at once & complete .
they are not expensive at the base tier , but go up from there ..
IDK how much you grasp, how they are supposed to adjust , so offer..
stem top edge has to be above the top edge of the steerer tube end.
and the bolts around the stem have to be loose, for the top cap to pull the whole stack down to do the preload .
Thanks, fietsbob, I'm pretty comfortable with the adjustment procedure. Regarding replacement, I had to remove and reinstall a threaded headset when I repainted an older steel frame. However, this time I'm not sure I can handle the crown race on the carbon fork, but the cups should be no trouble.
[MENTION=362748]SquidPuppet[/MENTION]: which Orbit model? My LBS offers a Cane Creek 40, a Ritchey Pro Logic and a Ritchey Logic Comp in my price range. I was thinking of buying the headset there and having them replace the crown race. The Logic Comp seems to be a good value, similar to the Pro Logic except that it's chromoly, not aluminum alloy, and it's $30 cheaper. However, the FSA Orbit X is online for $45 (regularly $70), not much more than the LBS price for the Logic Comp, and it's aluminum. I might buy the FSA and have the LBS do the whole installation.
[MENTION=370127]SlowJoeCrow[/MENTION]: I agree that the wobble is not going anywhere, the job should be a piece of cake once I decide which way to go.