I have a 2000 Fuji Team road bike (bought used) with a Cane Creek SL5 headset. The headset has a little wobble to it, but it can't be tightened any more or the steering feels like it is binding. The bearings are installed correctly, and the parts look like they are in reasonable shape. I took the headset apart, cleaned and regreased the bearings, but I noticed that there is no compression ring. This is my first (and only) threadless headset, I'm not sure that one is needed, but I bought one to see if it would eliminate the wobble - it didn't. The top race seems like it is rocking, I'm including a picture showing it being tilted on the bike. The top race might be overworn, the metal on the inside of the race seems thin (it's sharp). Anyway, I'm going to replace the headset, but I have a few questions:

1) Is there anything else I need to worry about relating to the headset, head tube, steerer or star nut (can I use the one currently in the steerer)?

2) I'm budgeting $60 for a new headset, is that sufficient? Any recommendations? I'm only moderately concerned about weight, mostly smoothness and durability.

3) Is stack height critical, or can I make up a difference by changing spacers?

Thanks!

Roger

Without looking at an on line parts diagram of the headset in question I'll say that some sort of centering design must exist for the upper cone (the one under the stem) to be stable on the steerer. Some use an "O" ring and tight fit. Others (and IIRC Cane Creek licensed this from Dia Comp) use a conical compression ring and a cone with a matching conical interface. I suspect you're missing this need. Andy.

for a threadless headset to work properly, the outside races of the bearings must be one with the headtube and the inside races of the bearings must be one with the steerer tube. additionally, there must be no vertical play. most headsets need a something to serve as an intermediary between the stem and and the inner race to remove excess play. this is the purpose of what's called a compression ring. IME and HO.

there's nothing to say i'm not full of it though.

The missing compression ring is a sign of trouble and all the wobbling around has probably deformed the headset cups so that unit is no longer trustworthy.
Since a basic Cane Creek, FSA or Ritchey headset runs about $35 you should be able to get a headset, some thin spacers and labor from your LBS to install it for around your $60 budget. Stack height is not a big deal since you can replace one of your 10mm spacers with a 5mm and some 2.5mm spacers to fine tune things and also put a 2.5mm above the stem for better clamping action.

buy a whole replacement headset to get all the parts at once & complete .

they are not expensive at the base tier , but go up from there ..

IDK how much you grasp, how they are supposed to adjust , so offer..

stem top edge has to be above the top edge of the steerer tube end.

and the bolts around the stem have to be loose, for the top cap to pull the whole stack down to do the preload .

No and yes.

I'm using an FSA Orbit and it feels/funtions great. I can't give a mileage report yet though.

No and yes.

A basic loose ball unit will work much better than a cheap cartridge unit, go cheaper for better performance in this case. Cane creek 40 series is about as cheap to go with cartridge units.

- joel

Thanks, fietsbob, I'm pretty comfortable with the adjustment procedure. Regarding replacement, I had to remove and reinstall a threaded headset when I repainted an older steel frame. However, this time I'm not sure I can handle the crown race on the carbon fork, but the cups should be no trouble.
[MENTION=362748]SquidPuppet[/MENTION]: which Orbit model? My LBS offers a Cane Creek 40, a Ritchey Pro Logic and a Ritchey Logic Comp in my price range. I was thinking of buying the headset there and having them replace the crown race. The Logic Comp seems to be a good value, similar to the Pro Logic except that it's chromoly, not aluminum alloy, and it's $30 cheaper. However, the FSA Orbit X is online for $45 (regularly $70), not much more than the LBS price for the Logic Comp, and it's aluminum. I might buy the FSA and have the LBS do the whole installation.
[MENTION=370127]SlowJoeCrow[/MENTION]: I agree that the wobble is not going anywhere, the job should be a piece of cake once I decide which way to go.

I got the Orbit MX because the price was right. Solid and spins like butter. Time will tell regarding wear, but it looked well built when I inspected it and it installed well too. Very forgiving during adjustment and so far it has held the first adjustment well too. Haven't needed to go back, and I do lots of wheelies.

Follow-up: installation was uneventful, the thing that was unusual was installing the crown race. I found a scrap piece of 1" oak board, and cut a hole in it just bigger than the steerer. I figured that the wood was hard enough to transmit force but not hard enough to damage the race. I put the board over my vise, then put the steerer and race upside-down in the hole. I used a soft board in the fork to tap the fork onto the race. The race appears to be seated correctly, and the headset is working great. Is there any risk in the approach?

in a pinch i've used a pine 2x4...