Originally Posted by
james1024
I was going to ask whether I could simply add a front brake to the Loft 1, but I think I agree that it isn't at all what I need. I agree with you on the brakes, and I don't think I'm a fan of the moustache handlebar. For me, the appeal of a single-speed is that it is in-line with how I'm used to riding: on junk Wal-Mart mountain bikes that I keep in the highest gear because shifting is a PITA, using my foot to push-off before pedaling. Maybe looking at real bikes will change my outlook on shifting.
Not quite that simple. The fork has to be drilled to accommodate a front brake.
I visited two of the three LBS in my area today(the third is closed Mondays):
The first had a single-speed bike very similar to the Loft 1, which I test rode. This one was maybe $20 less, but had a cro-mo frame, front brake, and flat bar. It seemed fine, though I didn't ride it long enough to gauge how I might like it over several miles.
If the bike
only had a front brake (and no rear brake), then more than likely you rode a fixed gear. It's a special type of single speed bike, but does not allow you to coast. A rear hand brake is unnecessary since the motion of the cranks directly control the rear wheel; resist the forward motion of the cranks by applying back pressure and you slow down your bike. Hipsters all over the country salivate over these kind of bikes but do yourself a favor and get a geared bike.
Neither of them seemed willing to measure me. At both places, I just got eyeballed and told a 54cm frame would be best. The third place is a Trek and Giant dealer, maybe they would be more accommodating being a major brand dealer?
You misunderstand what a bike fit is. If you are between 5'7" - 5'10" then a 54cm frame is probably going to be your best fit for an entry level bike. As you move up the price ladder you get smaller frame sizes for more aggressive riding positions. A basic bike fit consists of a professional fitter putting you on a trainer and observing you while you pedal, making adjustments to your seatpost, saddle, and stem/handlebars to ensure the bike conforms to your body dimensions. It's not the same as getting a fitted suit so don't expect any tape measures. All of this can be done by eyeballing. A more advance fitting usually incorporates some form of computer diagnostics to figure out the bike setup that will give you optimal power output, but that is primarily for competitive riders.
Having thought about it, it's likely I'll want to do more riding than what I initially thought. The thought of being able to ride off to another state if I so choose is pretty alluring. So, I think what I really want is a touring bike. But, even entry-level touring bikes are pricey, at least the ones I've seen. I think what I may do is buy a decent, cheaper city bike now, and take my time researching a touring bike purchase/build for later.
This is a good option as well. I wouldn't sweat over a touring bike unless you plan on hauling some serious luggage. Almost any bike that can accept rear racks can be used for light touring. Getting a cheap-ish
NEW bike and learning about how bikes function in addition to learning more about your biking needs would be beneficial; as a seasoned rider you can be more confident in buying a used bike since you will be able aware of what to look for in a functioning bike and can pick up great deals on the used market.