Originally Posted by
Pars
Well, they did both of them the same, because they are both this way.
Odd that I used these for probably a couple of years and though I noticed they didn't tighten/loosen like they should have, I just figured the buckles were tighter than I was used to. Even though I used to have Bindas.
Once I pulled them out of the Campy NR pedals (not easy), and examined them, I discovered the rollers wouldn't turn without assistance from some pliers.
If I were to grind one of the heads off of the roller axle, any suggested replacement? Finishing nail with the ends flattened?
Once you trimmed the finishing nail to extend just a little past the frame's end, you could create a "dimple" in the trimmed end that could be flared out using a modified nail set punch. This is essentially how the original rivit was formed. A non-ferrous nail, like brass, would work even more easily, after it was softened by a torch. Softening is technically called annealing, heat until dull red in a dimly lit area (bright lights won't allow for seeing the color well). The dimple should be a conical hole; a rounded punch tip will "roll" the rim of this hole outward and down onto the frame. Technically, this known as "upsetting". Again, the description is clumsier than if I could just demonstrate the process.
As for breaking a few blades on a Saw frame, practice makes perfect! IME, the rollers are not that hardened. The knurled pattern slightly hardens the surface, but the ends of the rollers are soft enough. As I am experienced, I can use 3 x0 saw blades. I would recommend 2 x 0 or 0 for those just starting out. these sizes may not be available at Harbor Freight, but possibly at a craft store like Michaels.