You might want to look closely at the middle gears (what you'll use on flattish roads), and optimize around that, ensuring that there's enough low end for the steep hills. I would also not bother with an 11t small cog if you're using a 50 or 52t big ring. 12 or even a 13t smallest cog would be plenty, IMHO, and probably give smaller steps in the middle of the cassette.

And since its 8-spd, the cogs are usually separable, so you could build any cassette you'd like. (I've got a drawer filled with every size Shimano cog made for 7/8-spd.) I'm currently using 12-14-16-17-19-21-24-28 (with 24-36-46 rings) on several bikes, and like that 1t spacing in the middle for subtle variations in speed/cadence on flat roads. Shifts just fine, despite what Shimano might say. The smaller 46t big ring gets used more, and allows the same subtle variations when the pace gets higher. I will be doing the STP one last time this summer and may use a 12-14-15-16-17-19-23-28 when I get stronger to deal with faster group rides. I would definitely suggest eliminating the second smallest cog, replacing it with a better cog size in the middle of the cassette. Just remember that the outer (smallest) cog should be one designated as "1st position".

You could give yourself plenty of options by picking up two different 8-spd cassettes that have different intermediate cogs (or even one 8- and one 7-spd - same width individual cogs), then assemble what you want using the 8-spd spacers. And you might find that what you want later when you're stronger will be different. BTW, the little bolts/pins connecting the cogs are not needed if you're using a hub with a steel freehub body. Also, Loose Screws has individual cogs in the smaller sizes.

http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=666360626641