You want a classic looking stem? Easy. And this approach gives you lots of choices.

1) Buy a 1" threaded headset to match your fork and headtube.
2) Take your fork to any framebuilder and have him cut and thread it. (Bring your frame and headset so he knows what length to cut to.)
2) Assemble and install any 1" quill stem. Want to go super high quality new for not too outrageous $$s? Get a Nitto Pearl. (But order it 1 cm shorter than you would say TTT or Cinelli. Nitto measures its stems perpendicular to the steerer CL, not to the stem CL/steerer CL intersection so its measurements are 1.05X bigger. A Nitto 12 is almost exactly a TTT 13.)

I had my custom ti built 1" threadless with a steel fork. My first threadless bike. If I can help it, I won't do it again. In fact, when the opportunity seems right, I will take the fork back to the builder and have him thread it. I have already talked to him about it. It's easy.

Sadly, this approach will not get you past the faceplate issue. I do not know yet of the stock quill stem that does faceplates. (Bicycle industry - hear that? There are those of us who still prefer quill stems because adjusting height is SO easy. Now if you make changing stem length nearly as as simple ...)

Edit: another plus of good old threaded, Campy steel, Stronglight or my favorite, the lowly Tange, at least my experience - dialing in the adjustment and having it stay there is really easy. The first 7000 miles of both my threadless and threaded Grip Nut (both Chris King) I had to adjust the headsets nearly every 200 miles. With a Tange threaded, it might be twice. Granted the problem with the threadless wasn't the headset, it was needing to adjust it every time I change the stem height.

Ben