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Old 02-05-15 | 02:46 PM
  #20  
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dddd
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From: Northern California

Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

Originally Posted by noglider
We replaced cable housings down there with bare cable because the housings had a way of sucking in water and grit. These thinner tubes might not be as bad, but bare cable still may be best (or least bad).
+1 ^^

I've seen many incidences of various tubings ending up doing more harm than good, especially where something slips out of place along the cable's path, causing a loss of cable tension adjustment.

I typically just put a drop of chain lube on each cable path whenever I lube my chain.
A bolt-on plastic cable guide piece is better, and in a couple of cases I used the existing guide loops to retain a short, thick section of rather stout plastic tubing.
Trek used stainless-steel cable sliding plates under their carbon frame's bb shell which actually caused enormous friction against stainless-steel cable, but luckily the plate's retaining tabs could be crimped onto some thick plastic tubing so as to retain a short piece of it (so not to lose indexing adjustment later because of a drifting piece of tubing).
A couple of Italian bikes I've seen had stepped, very sticky cable pathways under the bb shell, and luckily here I was able to force a right-sized diameter of plastic tubing into the existing loop(s) so as to eliminate the severe friction problem.
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