Ron,
If you have 3000 miles, you need an overhaul (clean and repack like a wheel hub). My book suggests once a year for regular road riders. More often for mountain bikes. I assure you, overhauling your headset is very do-able. I just did my second one. Same principle as doing a hub. Both the ones I have done had bearings in retainers. The only complication I had was that I did not pay attention to how the bearings were oriented the first time so I had to figure it out.

Today I did the headset on the old new Bianchi Brava I just got. Having overhauled the hubs and bottom bracket, I turned my attention to the headset. KaChunk, KaChunk. The lock nut was about half a turn short of hand tight. I just spun it off, really concerned about what I might find. Everything was OK except a little scarring of the paint where the steerer tube was apparently contacting the upper lip of the lower cup. Again as with the hubs, the cones showed zero wear - not even a little silver line where the bearings roll. Bearings were dry. Cleaned everything spick and span, greased it up, and put it back together.

Tips:

1. Remove the front brake assembly because it will be very difficult to get the bar out
1. Note and remember the order and orientation of bearings, dust seals, etc., when you disassemble.
2. Keep the bearings segregated so you put the top ones back on top and the bottoms back on bottom. I reused the same bearings because I know they have little to no wear. My book says to replace them because with wear they get kind of egg shaped They are fine as long as they are in place, but when you reassemble they will not be exactly oriented and can cause excessive cup wear. I'm just relaying what the book says here.
3. Get a real wrench of the right size for the adjustable cone/cup. You can get away with a Crescent for the lock nut if you have one big enough, but you need the thin wrench for the adjustable cone/cup.

Other than that you just tighten the adjustable cone/cup until it contacts the bearings slightly snug, back off until the fork turns freely but with no play, then tighten the lock nut down against the adjustable. Once you get everything back together, check it by applying the front brake and trying to rock the front wheel back and forth. If you feel any clunk, clunk, you may have it too loose. You don't have to disassemble everything, just back the lock nut off, turn the adjustable in a little and lock it back down. Check it again, etc. TaDaa!

Did I get it about right, Guys?

Give us a report.
Regards,
Raymond