Navigation in France with a map and compass is not a "nightmare", it is no more difficult than any other area. Most cities have cycle routes from edge to centre, which simplifies navigation.
If you need to refer to the map frequently, use a bar bag map holder.
Compass is for cloudy and foggy days, forest trails etc.
Studying a map gives you a good feel for the terrain and creating your own route is more fun for me than following left/right directions.