Originally Posted by
nitewing117
I'm not sure what sort of practice you've done with your pedals, but practicing panic stops helped me make unclipping second nature. It's easy to practice unclipping when you're coasting up to lights or stop signs, but it really matters most when you're under an immense amount of pressure. The same goes for falling - I'm sure there are drills you could do that can help you remember to tuck and keep your hands on the bars (for me, it came from doing martial arts for years when I was a kid).
Good points. Yes, practice has been mostly without any real pressure and I (obviously) haven't bridged the gap between thinking and just reacting. Now, to figure out a way to simulate panic stops and clip-outs without causing further damage. Maybe first work on panic stops with flats, emphasizing keeping
control of the bike throughout? Another idea: put some clipless pedals on the mountain bike and go practice on nice soft grass somewhere?
Never did any martial arts, but that's not a bad idea. Maybe take a few classes and learn how to tuck and roll. I'm pretty sure that would have helped immensely since the falls were otherwise pretty minor. Thanks Sensei!
Originally Posted by
fietsbob
which pedals, exactly? the frogs or roadie types ? what does the manual say?
"Light Action" Speedplays are road pedals. I do have a set of Frog pedals also, but not mounted on any bike. I guess I could consider putting the Frogs (or even the Light Action roadies) on the mountain bike and practicing panic stops somewhere safe.
Don't know what manual you are referring to? I did follow the instructions for mounting and torquing the new cleats supplied by Speedplay and I even called the US Speedplay rep twice and got advice on how to get the two sides set to equal tension. Also cleaned the pedals and lubed cleats and pedals with Speedplays dry lube concoction. The Light Action Speedplay also have maximum float--no adjustment as in their other more advanced road pedals such as the X1's.
Originally Posted by
TheManShow
Clipless peddles have moving parts, and moving part collect dirt & debris. Air in can like you use to blow out computer keyboard helps blow out dirt, etc.
I use a Look Delta Peddle, and use Bee Wax on the back surface of the cleat that is what comes free when you kick out.
Call me anal but every time I come home I take an old rag get the gunk out of the peddles, use a drop of white lightnig on the moving parts, than dry the excess with a q-tip or rag.
Per above, brand-new, adjusted and lubed cleats and a clean pedal.
Originally Posted by
SkepticalOne
I recently spent some time shopping for my first set of clipless. I have been absolutely delighted by a newer line of SPDs called Click'r:
SHIMANO CLICK'R - TECHNOLOGIES - CYCLING FOOTWEAR AND PEDALS - LIFESTYLE GEAR - SHIMANO
They barely require any effort to engage and very little lateral effort to disengage. I also love that they have flat pedals on one side so I can ride to the park wearing sandals. I strongly recommend them.
Thanks for this recommendation. I'm assuming that you got both "Clik'R" pedals AND shoes/cleats?
I'm aware of the "Clik'R" pedals and have been considering them for another bike (touring/all around). You're the first person that I've heard with a real-world personal recommendation. That said, I've been told that ANY Shimano SPD shoe using the "multi-release" cleats (SH 56, as opposed to SH 51's) will provide as easy a release as the Clik'R. I actually have wanted some SPD shoes/pedals for another bike and haven't pulled the trigger while waiting to see if the Clik'R or normal SPD's with SH 56 cleats would best. It might be a great idea to get some of these and compare them to the the Speedplays. If anyone has experience between the Shimano SPD's with SH 56 cleats and the new "Clik'R" pedals AND cleats, that would be helpful info.
Originally Posted by
andr0id
Sorry about your falls.
Thanks! I've had enough, that's for sure.
I think part of your problem is that you are not driving your bike like a car. You should look up vehicular cycling and learn the concepts.
I say this based on this description.
First, the flashing WALK light is NOT for you* and you should not be crossing in a crosswalk. You should either be in the lane or on an improved shoulder.
Secondly, you NEVER should put yourself on the right side of a driver in the right lane unless all the traffic is stopped. The "right hook" is so common that is has the name "right hook." You should have ridden behind that vehicle and then you would have made it safely through the intersection with no stopping required at all.
You could have probably avoided the first fall too by anticipating and avoiding rather than stopping.
* other than as a indicator that the red light is getting stale.
Excellent points. I'm sure a better bike handler would have NO problem avoiding these situations. Thinking back, if I were able and confident with a "track stand" and slow-speed maneuvering, I would have had room to just turn and pedal away. Ditto for not crossing at pedestrian crosswalks. I've just been cautious about riding on the road due to inexperience. The route to the gym has a MUP that I (and a lot of cyclists) use and it terminates at the pedestrian crosswalk at each intersection.
FWIW, and not making an excuse, all traffic WAS stopped, including the driver in the right-turn lane. It's just that he was looking left and preparing (I thought) to make a right turn on the red light (legal here).
Thanks to all for contributing to the discussion so far. I'm starting feel like I have a plan.
STP