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Old 07-20-16, 08:35 AM
  #27  
rpenmanparker 
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Originally Posted by dvdslw
No harm in having some fun around here, but as far as the op goes, his problems started when he opted for a tubeless setup that required the use of rim tape. There was a time when I didn't know any better and bought some wheels that needed tape, had problems, and quickly learned that its not ideal for road tubeless. Now that I've been self educated about the many potential problems that could arise from the use of rim tape in a road tubeless setup I simply take it out of the equation by choosing a rim that doesn't need it at all which simplifies the entire process.

Potential problems with rim tape;

Not enough - Tire won't inflate or inflates but leaks air through the spoke holes especially on carbon wheels where it's an open hole allowing air and sealant to fill the rim and slosh around.

Too much - Difficulty mounting tire because the extra tape increases the overall diameter of the rim making it next to impossible to mount a tire plus you take the chance of the tire bead not engaging the bead hooks properly due to the excessive build up potentially causing your tire to burp off the rim at any given time.

Too wide - May sound stupid but if you haven't gone shopping for rim tape you have no idea. There's several different widths to choose from plus a lot of guys seem recommend Gorilla tape which seems to seal really well but must be trimmed to fit your rims lengthwise, who's done that? If the tape is too wide it could also interfere with the bead lock interface causing a failure.

The tape will also come unglued if its old, installed incorrectly, or gets disturbed during the mounting/dismounting of the tire to where a portion of it as nicked or raised enough for the liquid sealant to get in there and start working on the adhesive.

And let's not forget what happened to me with my Carbon Assaults that were manufactured with some uneven seams where the rim tape adheres to the rim that would allow air and sealant to make its way into the rim.

All of the above can be avoided by choosing a wheel set that is Certified Road Tubeless, just saying.

Look at this picture, where do you think the air and sealant will leak out? If this were a carbon wheel, it would fill the hollow rim.
Look at the seam just above the spoke hole on my old Assault's, no tape is going to seal that crack, again where will the air and sealant go?
Now look at my new Certified Road Tubeless wheel, no spoke holes, smooth as can be, and NO need for tape! The way all road tubeless wheels should be made.
Can you build up that wheel yourself? Do you know the technique? Do you have the steel guide that has to be attached to the alloy nipples to move them into position? Suppose you break a spoke. Can you repair it yourself? A no answer to any of the above questions disqualifies that wheel for my purchase and use.

One more thing. Low pressures like 70 psi are no problem re: pinch flats with tubeless, sure. But that low a pressure does not adequately protect the rim. Keeping a tube from being snakebit requires higher pressures, but those higher pressures protect your wheels as well as your tubes. I would rather have a canary in the coal mine. If I pinch flat a tube, I know I need higher tire pressure to protect my rims. It is worth it.
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Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ
No matter where I go, here I am...

Last edited by rpenmanparker; 07-20-16 at 08:38 AM.
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