Originally Posted by
Big Block
detension the tension bolt, then the saddle goes into a bucket of room temperature water for an hour or two, then remove, pad underneath the leather (which should be more flexible) to achieve the shape you are after.
Lightly strap around to keep the skirt flaps from flaring out as it dries.
Move the straps whilst drying occurs so the leather dries evenly.
No localised artificial heat is needed, nor should be used.
Give it a few days to dry out. Tension the tension bolt and Proofide.
Take some photos at the stages and come back and update the thread.
Yes, that is the basic technique. A few remarks, though.
--you may not need to pad the underneath; once the leather is softened by water, you will be able to press it back to the desired shape with your fingers.
--Be careful with wrapping anything around it, because while the leather is wet it is very easy to leave permanent marks on the top. In my experience you probably don't need to wrap anything around it as it dries; just check on it periodically as it dries, and press it back to the desired shape if necessary.
--The surface of the leather may develop a porous look from being in the water. If this is the case, while the leather is drying, you can burnish it with a hard smooth tool such as a shoe horn, a knife blade or the back of a spoon, which will compress the surface and help restore the polish.
After it has dried, use only enough Proofide to polish the surface.
As Big Block said, do not use heat to accelerate the drying.
In my experience, it is pretty easy to restore the shape of an older leather saddles that has a deeply indented top. But often the leather stretches back to the indented shape after not much riding. If this is the case, repeat the process, but this time DO use heat to accelerate the drying. I have baked saddles in my kitchen oven, going as high as 180 degrees F (which is its lowest setting). This makes the leather quite a bit harder. I do this only as a last resort, to see if the leather can be saved.