Ok, curiousity was killing me. Had to break it down. So stuck in France I forgot which direction fixed cups are supposed to go so I spent longer (6-7 minutes) than pressing out the cotters (30 seconds) though
Is it normal to have an adjustable cup on both sides? Or should the DS have a fixed cup with lips?
Breakdown:
Ah, cotters. I personally love cotters. It helps when you have the correct tool, though! 2 seconds in, 2 seconds out, almost no effort.
End result of using correct tool - two perfectly good, already-fitted, ready-to-reinstall cotters.
With those out, a super-quick cleanup on and around the shell commences - shiny eh? the heavy ass Nervar-esque cottered crank comes off and here's the "fixed" cup (not very fixed!) and the adjustible cup. Is this normal? (I say 'Nervar-esque b/c I don't see branding but this looks and feels like Nervar)
BB measaure: Just under 71mm, and probably human error here so I believe it's 71mm cup.
Sucks if I can't retrofit this thing with cotterless cranks, but hey... even if I can't retrofit, it appears this is the factory spindle and cup(s?) aren't pitted. A little more wear on one spindle race than the other, but passes the pen test. Spindle is marked "16GC" and the same logo as the Sturmey Archer hubs. Doesn't look like the Raleigh logo, or is it the SA logo?
I attempted to thread a known-BSA Sugino BB into the shell. No go. Held the Raleigh cup up to the Sugino cup, thread-to-thread (quick trick to compare) and clearly the threading doesn't line up.
So I guess I'm screwed swapping out the BB for something more modern and sealed/serviceable without having the shell tapped, eh?