Originally Posted by
bikerbobbbb
Ugh. What a pain. I remember this from before. There's barely any room to work.
I need a slightly shorter hex head bolt. That's the ultimate solution. Another trip though to get that. And dissembling this thing again. Yuck.
Went to a few stores. Found this info.
One store says that bolt is 7/16" 14 thread. That doesn't match the other two stores though.
The other two stores said it's metric. 10 1.5
Only one store had an allen wrench type head, but the bolt head is round. And no threads near the top but the plate doesn't have threads either so it's not a huge issue. What is a huge issue is space. I tried the allen wrench round headed bolt, but there's not even enough room to get an allen wrench in. I could almost get one in slightly at an angle but that wasn't working. Then I'm wondering what I'll do in the future if I need to remove it. If an allen wrench doesn't fit and there's no edge on a round head... No leverage. So I gave up on that bolt.
I was also thinking a rachet with an attachment. Still the same issue -- Even the adapter piece doesn't have enough space over the bolt head.
I actually found some anti-seize lubricant. Aluminum-based I think. Future-Me thanks whoever mentioned that most likely. Interesting stuff. Liquidy toothpaste consistency. Silver colored, no surprise. It was such a pain to fit each in piece though -- The metal plate on top, then the bolt, and then screwing the bolt. -- that decided to put the anti-seize lube on first in the kickstand and bike frame hole. Because if something I tried worked, then I was done. Round/allen bolt didn't work... undid everything.... And by that time aluminimum paste was getting all over everything. You can see it in the pic. That kickstand is actually black. Fortunately it wipes off fairly easily. Put the original bolt in... Finally got it in place... slowly turn... and turn... and turn... Fingers worked easiest. And then it wouldn't turn anymore. Because it's designed to have the two plastic inserts on the bike frame. I have a shifter cable actually touching the plate so I don't want it up any higher. If it is higher, it presses more on the shifter cable and I don't know if that would even work to get the bolt in. The plate is also slightly diagonal across the frame bars to give that shifting cable more room.
Any thoughts on a solution? I've got these two, and I remember the one from before.
Jam something underneath to add space between the bike frame and the kickstand. Not great though. I remember pushing cardboard or plastic under the other. The problem is the bolt is just too long. It won't turn anymore. With the first kickstand, I didn't get the plastic insert pieces so I had no idea it was meant to be a little higher.
Best solution, but this is a pain -- Hunt down a hex head bolt that's a little shorter than this one. That means taking it all apart again.... Fortunately I should have the specs for exactly what I'm looking for. The bolt is going to be covered in anti-seize lube though...
A third solution would be to get an even shorter bolt and not use the plate part on top. That uses the narrower plate welded into the bike. I don't like that idea so much. For the amount of stress it would get and the stability of having the extra plate and the welded on bottom plate, that's got to be way more secure.
Fudge... More time dissembling this thing, no kickstand for a while again, and another trip to the hardware store.....
I have a similar project going using these double legged Pletscher stands. Pletscher has a variety of clamping parts to adapt these stands, but the importer doesn't regularly stock them. A special order was placed for me to get the parts that I found on Pletscher's website. One of my solutions was to substitute a narrower cap bolt and use a threaded insert fitted into the lower part. I had to order the threaded sleeve from Fastenal or Grainger to make the adaptation. The Raleigh frame that I intended to use, did not have the normal clearance between the chain stay bridge and the bottom bracket to use the standard hardware (Carlton made International). Fortunately for me, the cable routing I m working with runs on top of the bottom bracket shell in the older style of the 70's. I could envision filing a notch or slot in the top plate to allow cable passage, but it would be very challenging.