Possible to get a bolt out of a kickstand?
04-02-17 | 04:53 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 620
Likes: 3
Thanks. I've got it solved I guess. Better than before.
The bike frame hole is threaded, but it's not round. I don't know if it was always like that or if the old kickstand wore it out. The old kickstand was loose.
The old kickstand didn't come with the plastic inserts to fit over the bike frame. It never dawned on me the bolt was standard and I could find a shorter one.
I also didn't get a lock washer with the old one. I remembered there was a lock washer today.
I ended up buying 5-6 bolts of different lengths. Then there was coarse vs. fine.... And then when I tested those bolts on the store thread/size plate, all -- coarse and fine threads -- fit fine. I got shorter ones that had an extra "washer" "hood" part in case I did use that bike frame piece. Turns out I didn't need to. I'm sick of shopping so I guess I won't bother returning them. Spares are good but I might never use them.
Also bought some more washers in case I needed spacers and two sizes of lock washers -- 3/8 (which I used) and 7/8"?... or 5/8"? Something a little larger than 3/8". I ended up using my 3/8" lock washer since that seemed to actually thread on and the split in it has the ends farther so it looked stronger. That was a pain to thread on though.
Bolt I used -- Metric 10 1.5 "fine" thread I think, as opposed to coarse or very fine.
Bolt I used was 2 5/8".
Lock washer, 3/8", threaded on.
Bolt with lockwasher into the black plate, through the bike frame (which still seemed to thread a bit even though the hole is loopsized/not-a-cirle for sure), into the kickstand.
There's a groove in the bike frame itself for the kickstand. With the shorter bolt, the kickstand is flat up against the flat part of the bike frame. That's good. With the original longer bolt (which was 1/4-1/2" longer than the bolt I used) the kickstand wasn't flat so it tip the bike. That's where the pressure probably is for keeping the bike upright.
Kickstand says it takes 25kg. That's something around 55 pounds. I was glad to see that. I think I'm generally within specs for my weight loads when I use the kickstand.
Pulling it out was fairly easy. Putting it back was a pain. I put the lockwasher under the frame at first. Pushing the top plate in, angling it back, pushing the bolt in so I could see the bolt line up with the bike frame hole, and then screwing it in by hand, was the only method that worked. To unscrew, you can actually use the kickstand as a lever to unscrew the bolt. I ended up redoing the in-process a few times, once to get the manufacturer info on the outside so it's readable.
After I hand it finger tightened, I tried using an adjustable crescent wrench. No good. That's too curved, too much space on either side. It would fit over the bolt head but there was no where to turn. So I ended up taking a regular pair of pliers, used paper towels to soften the teeth as much as I could, put a death grip on it so it would chew less, and carefully tightened it. I could feel the lockwasher sink in, so that was good.
Kickstand seems flat on the bike frame. No wobble. Bike stands. I got the rubber feet for this kickstand. I didn't know those existed either. I'm not 100% sure I like how they are or that when I sawed off the kickstand legs, that the right one is correct. If the handlebars swivel right, the bike would tip over. Good enough for now though, and better than before.
(Not sure what's up with the second, tall pic. I've got it rotated correctly for the pic on my computer.)
The bike frame hole is threaded, but it's not round. I don't know if it was always like that or if the old kickstand wore it out. The old kickstand was loose.
The old kickstand didn't come with the plastic inserts to fit over the bike frame. It never dawned on me the bolt was standard and I could find a shorter one.
I also didn't get a lock washer with the old one. I remembered there was a lock washer today.
I ended up buying 5-6 bolts of different lengths. Then there was coarse vs. fine.... And then when I tested those bolts on the store thread/size plate, all -- coarse and fine threads -- fit fine. I got shorter ones that had an extra "washer" "hood" part in case I did use that bike frame piece. Turns out I didn't need to. I'm sick of shopping so I guess I won't bother returning them. Spares are good but I might never use them.
Also bought some more washers in case I needed spacers and two sizes of lock washers -- 3/8 (which I used) and 7/8"?... or 5/8"? Something a little larger than 3/8". I ended up using my 3/8" lock washer since that seemed to actually thread on and the split in it has the ends farther so it looked stronger. That was a pain to thread on though.
Bolt I used -- Metric 10 1.5 "fine" thread I think, as opposed to coarse or very fine.
Bolt I used was 2 5/8".
Lock washer, 3/8", threaded on.
Bolt with lockwasher into the black plate, through the bike frame (which still seemed to thread a bit even though the hole is loopsized/not-a-cirle for sure), into the kickstand.
There's a groove in the bike frame itself for the kickstand. With the shorter bolt, the kickstand is flat up against the flat part of the bike frame. That's good. With the original longer bolt (which was 1/4-1/2" longer than the bolt I used) the kickstand wasn't flat so it tip the bike. That's where the pressure probably is for keeping the bike upright.
Kickstand says it takes 25kg. That's something around 55 pounds. I was glad to see that. I think I'm generally within specs for my weight loads when I use the kickstand.
Pulling it out was fairly easy. Putting it back was a pain. I put the lockwasher under the frame at first. Pushing the top plate in, angling it back, pushing the bolt in so I could see the bolt line up with the bike frame hole, and then screwing it in by hand, was the only method that worked. To unscrew, you can actually use the kickstand as a lever to unscrew the bolt. I ended up redoing the in-process a few times, once to get the manufacturer info on the outside so it's readable.
After I hand it finger tightened, I tried using an adjustable crescent wrench. No good. That's too curved, too much space on either side. It would fit over the bolt head but there was no where to turn. So I ended up taking a regular pair of pliers, used paper towels to soften the teeth as much as I could, put a death grip on it so it would chew less, and carefully tightened it. I could feel the lockwasher sink in, so that was good.
Kickstand seems flat on the bike frame. No wobble. Bike stands. I got the rubber feet for this kickstand. I didn't know those existed either. I'm not 100% sure I like how they are or that when I sawed off the kickstand legs, that the right one is correct. If the handlebars swivel right, the bike would tip over. Good enough for now though, and better than before.
(Not sure what's up with the second, tall pic. I've got it rotated correctly for the pic on my computer.)
04-03-17 | 04:13 PM
#28
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 620
Likes: 3
Hm. I got the black rubber foot pads for the kickstand. Those are nice. They're pretty tight for fitting, but one came off.
What would work to glue (or attach) a little rubber foot to a metal kickstand?
Maybe rough up the kickstand and use superglue.... But it's on the end of a kickstand so it's going to be uber-abused....
I actually lightly tapped them on with a hammer before. It's that tight of a fit. I've tried twice today to push the one back on with my fingers but that's not working.
What would work to glue (or attach) a little rubber foot to a metal kickstand?
Maybe rough up the kickstand and use superglue.... But it's on the end of a kickstand so it's going to be uber-abused....
I actually lightly tapped them on with a hammer before. It's that tight of a fit. I've tried twice today to push the one back on with my fingers but that's not working.
