I'm thinking, no, not for me. I don't have a drill that would do something like this.

I've got a double kickstand like this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...EEY9IL19R&th=1

There's one bolt through the bottom of the bike that holds (or held) it on.


That bolt snapped where it goes into the leg part on the bottom. Legs still would work. There's just a snapped off bolt in the leg part.

I might be able to get a quick pic. It almost looks like the bolt fused to the legs and the piece that snapped is what was left from corrosion.

I'm ordering a new one. I'm wondering if this old one is still any good at all. Potentially if I could get the rest of the bolt out and replace the bolt it would still work.

pictures of actual situation are the only way to give anything other a guess

I don't think anything came off that flat/leg piece. It looks like the bolt corroded away a bit on the sides. Probably water sitting in there over time, plus road salt during the winters. I checked and that kickstand is from 2013. Warranty is 36 months I think.

It never lined up to be a nice tight fit. It was always a bit loose. I'm trying to think of ways to tighten and protect the new one, like adding in some old inner tube pieces maybe. The bolt was a pain to tighten for how it stick up in the middle of the bike pieces. 1/8 turn by 1/8 turn I remember to get that on.

Heavy load on the bike. I used to go through more regular kickstands, so I invested in this one.

Bike shops have extras.

"cyrofreeze" it like you would your spokes.

[QUOTE=bikerbobbbb;19473920]

It never lined up to be a nice tight fit. It was always a bit loose. I'm trying to think of ways to tighten and protect the new one, like adding in some old inner tube pieces maybe. The bolt was a pain to tighten for how it stick up in the middle of the bike pieces. 1/8 turn by 1/8 turn I remember to get that on.
QUOTE]


I got a socket head stainless cap screw to replace the hex bolt on mine, makes it easier to drive in close quarters using a ball-end driver.


Put grease or anti-seize on the bolt next time.


https://www.rivbike.com/products/ple...stand-hardware

Try an easy out.

Even those Esge 2 leg stands are not that much , buy a new one.

[QUOTE=dsbrantjr;19473975]

Nice.


Also found this.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...kickstand.html

So... anti-seize lube? You can get that anywhere, ie a car shop or hardware store? That's nothing special, right?

Yeah, but I'd do what dsbrantjr suggests and get a stainless allen headed bolt (the non technical term for a socket headed cap screw). If you do that and put some anti-electrolysis teflon paste on it it won't corrode into the stand. Electrolysis is the reaction between the aluminium of the stand and the metal of the bolt. This is why the last bolt got stuck too, the aluminium reacted and expanded jamming the bolt in nice and tight. Bolt shops will sell the paste, if they are nice they may even smear a bit on the bolt for you, otherwise it's handy to have if you have an aluminium frame.

Bad news.

I don't think I'd even bother trying. Looking at the pattern of corrosion, I suspect that it's been exposed to the elements for quite a while. If it's long enough for the bolt to show that much rust, I suspect that the stud may well be bound to the body by galvanic corrosion.

If you want to give it a shot, light a candle, then use a Dremel type tool to make a slot across the top and see if a screw driver will budge it. Before doing that give it a long soak in either ammonia solution, or with a penetrating oil such as Kroil.

However, as I said, it'll be an uphill battle, not worth the effort given the stakes.

I remember this thing. I was a pain to get it installed. Barely any room to work, although I like the idea of swapping the bolt out for a hex head bolt. There is more maneuvering room above.

I thought the paint was rubbed off which makes sense, but it looks like there's additional metal added where the old kickstand was.

Hole under that is threaded I notice but looks lopsided.

And that shifter cable. I think I've got another thread on here about it. It was ok. Not great, but ok and still functional. There's not much wiggle room with that cable right there like that.


I slowly cranked the thing in from the side bit by bit until I couldn't get it to go any farther, and it was still somewhat loose.


What I'd really like for a kickstand is something giant, human leg-sized, that swings out and supports the bike. Kickstands always seem a bit weak. (Keep in mind I'm using the double leg kick stand when my bike has a load on it.) That and a wheel holder thing at home to hold the bike in one position would be nice too, but after searching I could find a simple, movable holder like that.


My lovely attempt at adjusting the shifting last year is there too, cable just starting to come unbound but it still worked.

Also a nice find....


https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...ailleur-2.html

There's a pic of my old kickstand and the shifting cable. So if I did add material to expand the kickstand flat piece the bolt goes into, there might not be enough room with that cable in the way... I see this bike set up has a similar situation but the cable must not be as close.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/14...83038291892202
https://www.rivbike.com/products/ple...stand-hardware

Maybe it will work with extra spacers. Or maybe the spacers can go under or be halved or something. Or maybe I'd be extraordinarily lucky and the extra hex head bolt from that site would work.

Yep, that's what I was thinking. Give up on it, even though the kickstand functions. I wasn't aware metals could fuse together like that before. I first saw that with "why are nipples brass" while wheel building researching.

Hm. I'm not quite sure what my bike is made out of.
2009 Raleigh Detour 4.5 - BikePedia
"Atomic 13 Aluminum"
Some kind of aluminum alloy/mix?
I know the bike shop I got it from told it was really thing steel one time and aluminum another time.

I just checked my actual bike. Same thing I thought when I took those pics -- The pics have more brown/red in them. For sure that hole in the frame attached piece isn't rusting that I see in person. It's got a nice coating of grey street gunk, grey in reality, not brown or tan like the pics show. That's a yellow flashlight beam on it and then the white flash from the camera. I was wondering if it was rusting. It doesn't appear to be, but in terms of frame metal, who knows what the weld/flux or little add-on bits of metal are for sure. "Made in China" caught my eye too.



"Atomic 13 Aluminum" looks like what Raleigh likes. So that's aluminum? It's just a specific type or Raleigh's specific name for their aluminum mix? And aluminum can corrode but won't rust. Dang.... I'll make a new thread. I saw yesterday that aluminum frames eventually wear out.... Only ten years though?

You need a new front derailleur cable.

Yep.... But it's still working. The limiter screws are probably going to be stripped on the heads if I experiment with it too much.


Forgot to post these pics. This looks like an interesting solution.


From the Amazon page.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep, pretty much.

Ugh. What a pain. I remember this from before. There's barely any room to work.

I need a slightly shorter hex head bolt. That's the ultimate solution. Another trip though to get that. And dissembling this thing again. Yuck.

Went to a few stores. Found this info.
One store says that bolt is 7/16" 14 thread. That doesn't match the other two stores though.
The other two stores said it's metric. 10 1.5
Only one store had an allen wrench type head, but the bolt head is round. And no threads near the top but the plate doesn't have threads either so it's not a huge issue. What is a huge issue is space. I tried the allen wrench round headed bolt, but there's not even enough room to get an allen wrench in. I could almost get one in slightly at an angle but that wasn't working. Then I'm wondering what I'll do in the future if I need to remove it. If an allen wrench doesn't fit and there's no edge on a round head... No leverage. So I gave up on that bolt.

I was also thinking a rachet with an attachment. Still the same issue -- Even the adapter piece doesn't have enough space over the bolt head.

I actually found some anti-seize lubricant. Aluminum-based I think. Future-Me thanks whoever mentioned that most likely. Interesting stuff. Liquidy toothpaste consistency. Silver colored, no surprise. It was such a pain to fit each in piece though -- The metal plate on top, then the bolt, and then screwing the bolt. -- that decided to put the anti-seize lube on first in the kickstand and bike frame hole. Because if something I tried worked, then I was done. Round/allen bolt didn't work... undid everything.... And by that time aluminimum paste was getting all over everything. You can see it in the pic. That kickstand is actually black. Fortunately it wipes off fairly easily. Put the original bolt in... Finally got it in place... slowly turn... and turn... and turn... Fingers worked easiest. And then it wouldn't turn anymore. Because it's designed to have the two plastic inserts on the bike frame. I have a shifter cable actually touching the plate so I don't want it up any higher. If it is higher, it presses more on the shifter cable and I don't know if that would even work to get the bolt in. The plate is also slightly diagonal across the frame bars to give that shifting cable more room.


Any thoughts on a solution? I've got these two, and I remember the one from before.

Jam something underneath to add space between the bike frame and the kickstand. Not great though. I remember pushing cardboard or plastic under the other. The problem is the bolt is just too long. It won't turn anymore. With the first kickstand, I didn't get the plastic insert pieces so I had no idea it was meant to be a little higher.

Best solution, but this is a pain -- Hunt down a hex head bolt that's a little shorter than this one. That means taking it all apart again.... Fortunately I should have the specs for exactly what I'm looking for. The bolt is going to be covered in anti-seize lube though...

A third solution would be to get an even shorter bolt and not use the plate part on top. That uses the narrower plate welded into the bike. I don't like that idea so much. For the amount of stress it would get and the stability of having the extra plate and the welded on bottom plate, that's got to be way more secure.

Fudge... More time dissembling this thing, no kickstand for a while again, and another trip to the hardware store.....

In the pack with new ones for bikes with a kickstand plate there is a shorter hex socket bolt.

the KS plate alone should be sufficient, without the clamping piece down onto the Chainstay..

Because its a standard metric thread bolt perhaps you can find one at an Auto parts store?


If not at a Bike Shop.


People have filed away enough aluminum from the kickstand to allow a RD cable to pass thru ..



....

Aluminum is atomic # 13 on the periodic table.....

I have a similar project going using these double legged Pletscher stands. Pletscher has a variety of clamping parts to adapt these stands, but the importer doesn't regularly stock them. A special order was placed for me to get the parts that I found on Pletscher's website. One of my solutions was to substitute a narrower cap bolt and use a threaded insert fitted into the lower part. I had to order the threaded sleeve from Fastenal or Grainger to make the adaptation. The Raleigh frame that I intended to use, did not have the normal clearance between the chain stay bridge and the bottom bracket to use the standard hardware (Carlton made International). Fortunately for me, the cable routing I m working with runs on top of the bottom bracket shell in the older style of the 70's. I could envision filing a notch or slot in the top plate to allow cable passage, but it would be very challenging.

Since the plate on the bike is treaded ,maybe it be easier to put the bolt in from the bottom between the kickstand's legs . Another thought would be not to use the top plate at all and just screw the bolt thought the plate in the frame and then thou the kickstand .

the kickstands are threaded unless he ruined the thread getting the broken bolt out, not the chainstay plate on the frame.

.
...I don't know if you could ever get that bolt out of of the old stand, but I sure get a kick out of [MENTION=416430]bikerbobbbb[/MENTION].