Originally Posted by
Salamandrine
There were fancy Univegas and basic cheap Univegas, like any brand. All the bike shop brands had starting models at around $200, and top models that were $1000 and up. You have to go by the particular bike, not the brand.
UV Specialissima was one of the best production touring bikes ever made. Good luck finding one, but there are some out there. The much more common Gran Turismo is probably sufficient for your needs, and you are more likely to find one at your budget.
Finding a nice vintage touring bike is going to be a matter of luck and seizing opportunity. Keep your eyes open and post here if you have questions as to whether it's worth it.
PS you don't necessarily need a triple to ride from Glendale to downtown LA. It's pretty much flat, unless you live at the top of the Glendale hills or something.
Actually found a Univega Specialissima the first day I started checking Craigslist about a week ago for $140 that seemed in pretty good shape. At the time, I had no clue how amazing it would have been to snag but definitely gone by the time I realized.
Yeah the more I think about it, the more I'm debating if I'll necessarily go for a bike with a triple. I found I did pretty well without it on the last mountain bike I had. I do like to take detours or random long routes on the way home though, so I'm sure I'll eventually try and find a triple that I can swap in if I don't immediately get a bike with one.
Originally Posted by
brianinc-ville
You've got some good advice here. If you can find a touring bike with a triple crank in your size, go for it. Otherwise, an '80s Japanese road bike with a double in front and the biggest low gear you can put on the back (32, if you can swing it). You'll learn what geometry works for you, but I'd look out for relatively long chainstays and long wheelbase -- not a twitchy racing bike.
As for tires: I'm not convinced of the need for very wide ones. I find 28mm (27 x 1 1/4) ideal for the distances you're riding.
As you ride, you'll figure out what's comfortable (or not) for you -- it's very personal. But I'd say that many people don't do well with vintage drop bars. I prefer bars where
the drops are parallel to the ramps; your preference may vary. You might also prefer something like moustache bars. The Nittos are excellent.
As for saddles -- again, it's personal, but most people do like a Brooks. Look out for deals on eBay -- or just make an investment in a Brooks Imperial.
For U-locks, I've done well with both OnGuard and Kryptonite. The important thing is to use it -- and if you can help it, don't leave it locked up outside overnight.
Awesome! I was definitely wondering about different styles of bars since I'm used to simple flat bars and haven't rode drop bars for any extended amount of time. Ah darn maybe I should have hopped on a nice Brooks seat when I had the chance. Any other brands to consider or is Brooks undeniably the best? As for the U-locks, I'm considering investing in a Kryptonite NY Fahgettaboudit when I have the extra cash (overkill?) but maybe in the mean time Kryptonite Keeper since it seems tough but well-priced.
Originally Posted by
ecnewell
Yeah, I agree that you don't really need a triple. I doubt your locale is as hilly as where I live, and I get by with a 39 tooth chainring as the small ring on a double. You could go with a 36 or a 34 if you really need it. For additional reference, I also have a couple of touring bikes, and unless I'm fully loaded and/or going up a very steep hill, I almost never use the smallest ring on the triple. It's nice to know it's there, but I wouldn't plan your purchase around it.
Do look for something with a relatively long wheelbase, clearance for wide tires and fenders, fender mounts, and rear rack mounts at the very least. Most importantly, find something that fits, and that doesn't show signs of damage (bent fork/tubes, excessive rust, etc.). It's a good idea to bring some basic tools and ensure the seatpost and stem aren't stuck.
Good luck!
Yeah definitely not as hilly as somewhere like SF over in NorCal. I am definitely considering whether I'll go for a triple bike or not since it's pretty much only when I take random detours on the way home that I'll come across some good hills.
Ah that's a very good idea about the seat post and stem. Having broken my old seatpost, it was awful and definitely wouldn't be a fun surprise on a new bike. For that, would a set of hexkeys be important?
Originally Posted by
gugie
Glendale to downtown, I'd get on the LA River Trail to Dodger Stadium. Not sure how to navigate to downtown that avoids traffic after that. But you surely don't need super low gearing for your commute, although a vintage mountain bike will give you that.
As you're seeing, lots of suggestions to use a mountain bike, stronger wheels and fatter tires for the commute. Speed sholdn't be high on your priority list, durability should be #1. If you're budget constrained, find a good, cheap, old steel mountain bike that has decent quality components, and if need be replace all the consumables: chain, cables, tires.
Here's a picture of a near perfect commuter bike:
There's tape, decals, and stickers covering up the true identy of this bike. A closer look and I could see a Tange Magnalloy sticker-not top shelf, but not shabby gas pipe either. Forged dropouts, and a hodgepodge of parts, none of which matched, but all good quality, used, but well maintained condition. The chain was clean and lubed, cable housing cut and routed fairly nicely. 32 spoke rear wheel, 36 spoke 4 cross front wheel, decent rubber on both. The shift and brake levers were well positioned, and parallel. The saddle and bars appear to be at reasonable heights, suggesting this is the correct size bike for the rider.
Definitely tough to avoid traffic once I start getting close to downtown but luckily some bike lanes have been opening up to help me out.
Any recommendations on must-have or solid mountain bikes to watch out for? I've mostly found Trek bikes otherwise I'm only finding hardtails. Also checking my local co-op a good idea to replace the consumables?
Would you recommend using stickers, tape and paint as a good idea to hide the value of the bike and theft deterrence (aside from just making it my own I suppose)?
Originally Posted by
wrk101
Any touring bike is going to be heavier than 24 pounds, more like 27 pounds +/-. MTBs are heavier still.
Custom Sport and Sport Deluxe are dogs, Univegas are on the basic end. $120 price point is a tough one to find a decent road bike. Touring bike? Harder still. MTBs should be plentiful at that point. Most of the better stuff around here road bike wise sells for $200 and up. If you do find a better road bike under $200, it either needs a lot of work, or it will be sold lightning fast.
Do you have the transportation to pounce on a deal fast?
Check out the co-ops first. They often sell nice used bikes that have been repaired and made road ready. In addition, they could assist you in refurbishing a neglected used bike if you find a deal. Every co-op is different, so check out several of them. At the co-op I work at, we get a lot of MTBs and hybrids. Avoid MTBs with suspensions, they tend to be worn out, and you don't need one for road work anyway.
Luckily I have transportation if I can spot a good deal, whether through the girlfriend or family. Definitely going to drop by a local co-op today and see what I can do.
Update on finds: Found a $140 Univega Supra Sport with rack, helmet, solid looking chain and lock, water bottle holder. $100 Miyata 610, $100 Motobecane Super Mirage, $130 Schwinn Continental (70s).
Will be doing searching more for mountain bikes later and then do another big update. Thanks a ton guys for looking out for me!