Finding a Versatile First Bike
#51
Full Member

Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 437
Likes: 3
From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2007 Raleigh Rx 1.0, 1990 Cannondale ST400, 1981 Fredy Rüegg, 1984 Miyata One-Thousand
If those are the same Suntour Sealed Bearing hubs found on the Miyata 1000, they're quite nice. You could put in a new set of cartridge bearings and be rolling for a while longer, provided the rims are OK. That would give you time to decide if you want to upgrade to a freehub and respace or not.
#52
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Now that you've got the bike, get a good lock for it!
I like the ABUS link locks like the Bordo 6000. If you want to be super secure you can get a cable for the front tire. Make sure any accessories (lights) are quick-release and come off every time you leave it at a public bike rack. It only takes a second to un-do them, and if you don't, someone else will.
A good lock will cost more than your bike. It's insurance against buying another bike, and will be cheaper in the long run, I've been using my ABUS lock for 10 years. It doesn't need upgrading when I upgrade my bikes!
edit: That's totally a score!
Look out for the brake levers, they're meant for drop bars, and putting them on flat bars like that means they were probably bent out so that they'd have enough travel. Either that or they don't have enough travel, which could be a safety issue. Take some close-up shots of the levers, and of the brakes when relaxed, just snugged to the rim, and clenched. Ideally the cable and housing will run out of flex before the lever hits the grip.
I like the ABUS link locks like the Bordo 6000. If you want to be super secure you can get a cable for the front tire. Make sure any accessories (lights) are quick-release and come off every time you leave it at a public bike rack. It only takes a second to un-do them, and if you don't, someone else will.
A good lock will cost more than your bike. It's insurance against buying another bike, and will be cheaper in the long run, I've been using my ABUS lock for 10 years. It doesn't need upgrading when I upgrade my bikes!
edit: That's totally a score!
Look out for the brake levers, they're meant for drop bars, and putting them on flat bars like that means they were probably bent out so that they'd have enough travel. Either that or they don't have enough travel, which could be a safety issue. Take some close-up shots of the levers, and of the brakes when relaxed, just snugged to the rim, and clenched. Ideally the cable and housing will run out of flex before the lever hits the grip.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HN47G1M...d=G0Y3BS97QERR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OZ9VLU...d=G0Y3BS97QERR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUBQC...ERR&th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Yo...7H2AB775C9VAKZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VMO4CW...d=G0Y3BS97QERR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G...ERR&th=1&psc=1
Any concerns about carrying any of these around, preferences about security or ease of use/carrying? I'd be going into downtown LA, but will lock the bike on campus outside class buildings. I was wondering if it would be a better idea to park near where I know campus police will pass often or hide it in nearby parking garages.
In terms of the brakes, here's a few pictures I took.
Brakes open: imgbox - fast, simple image host
Brakes closed: imgbox - fast, simple image host
Levers and cables: imgbox - fast, simple image host
Hopefully I can get this figured out and still be able to swap on some drop bars.
#53
...addicted...


Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 886
Likes: 58
From: East of the River, Washington DC
Bikes: 1985 Alpine, 2007 IRO Rob Roy, 1985 Ross Mt. Whitney, 1991 Diamondback Master TG
Looking around at locks I've been wondering about these few.
Any concerns about carrying any of these around, preferences about security or ease of use/carrying? I'd be going into downtown LA, but will lock the bike on campus outside class buildings. I was wondering if it would be a better idea to park near where I know campus police will pass often or hide it in nearby parking garages.
In terms of the brakes, here's a few pictures I took.
Hopefully I can get this figured out and still be able to swap on some drop bars.
Any concerns about carrying any of these around, preferences about security or ease of use/carrying? I'd be going into downtown LA, but will lock the bike on campus outside class buildings. I was wondering if it would be a better idea to park near where I know campus police will pass often or hide it in nearby parking garages.
In terms of the brakes, here's a few pictures I took.
Hopefully I can get this figured out and still be able to swap on some drop bars.
I like the link lock because it fits into its own holder that attaches to water bottle bosses. If you don't need a water bottle around campus, it's much more convenient than dealing with a large U-lock or thick cable. U-locks come with their own holders that clamp to the seat tube, but they take up so much space in the frame and I'd rather use the water bottle bosses.
Re: Brakes I think I meant a picture of the lever position, not the brake pads themselves. What does the lever position look like when they're just snug, and how close to the bar can you make the lever at full tension? If those levers were bent, I'd replace them with some $10 flat-bar levers, it may involve switching the brake cable to a mtn type. If you're planning on switching back to drop bars, I'd still get new levers. If this is low-speed campus transportation, and short trips, I'd personally keep it flat bar.
Re: "patrolled" racks vs. garage... I'd go with the garage, and lock just as well. Iv'e had mixed success with outdoor racks when I was in college.
#54
This might be a minority view, but I've never had any trouble with a u-lock holder bracket mounted on the seat tube. Of course, that will keep you from putting a bottle cage there and, depending on the length of the lock, might also interfere with a bottle cage on the downtube. Your call on how many bottles you need and where to put them. Me, I'd rather have my bottle on the handlebars. But since you'll almost certainly be traveling with either panniers or Wald folding baskets (I like the baskets; they make it easy to grab your stuff and go -- but they are heavy), you can always put the u-lock in there.
Amazon links aren't working, but as for where to lock up: hard to say without being familiar with the place, but while as a general rule a more public place with more "eyes on the street" is better than an out-of-the-way place, on the other hand, in an an extremely busy location the bustle and noise might actually cover up what the thief is doing. If you haven't watched "
," you should.
As for brake levers: yeah, it's probably worth getting new ones with your new bars. It's hard to tell whether those levers have been bent, but if they have, you don't want to use them. Unlike steel, aluminum can't be bent without compromising its strength. You should be able to pick up levers real cheap at a bike co-op. BTW, everybody's got opinions on drop bars, but Nitto Noodle or Velo Orange Grand Cru Course would be my pick.
Amazon links aren't working, but as for where to lock up: hard to say without being familiar with the place, but while as a general rule a more public place with more "eyes on the street" is better than an out-of-the-way place, on the other hand, in an an extremely busy location the bustle and noise might actually cover up what the thief is doing. If you haven't watched "
As for brake levers: yeah, it's probably worth getting new ones with your new bars. It's hard to tell whether those levers have been bent, but if they have, you don't want to use them. Unlike steel, aluminum can't be bent without compromising its strength. You should be able to pick up levers real cheap at a bike co-op. BTW, everybody's got opinions on drop bars, but Nitto Noodle or Velo Orange Grand Cru Course would be my pick.
#55
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Ok... the Amazon links are broken.
I like the link lock because it fits into its own holder that attaches to water bottle bosses. If you don't need a water bottle around campus, it's much more convenient than dealing with a large U-lock or thick cable. U-locks come with their own holders that clamp to the seat tube, but they take up so much space in the frame and I'd rather use the water bottle bosses.
Re: Brakes I think I meant a picture of the lever position, not the brake pads themselves. What does the lever position look like when they're just snug, and how close to the bar can you make the lever at full tension? If those levers were bent, I'd replace them with some $10 flat-bar levers, it may involve switching the brake cable to a mtn type. If you're planning on switching back to drop bars, I'd still get new levers. If this is low-speed campus transportation, and short trips, I'd personally keep it flat bar.
Re: "patrolled" racks vs. garage... I'd go with the garage, and lock just as well. Iv'e had mixed success with outdoor racks when I was in college.
I like the link lock because it fits into its own holder that attaches to water bottle bosses. If you don't need a water bottle around campus, it's much more convenient than dealing with a large U-lock or thick cable. U-locks come with their own holders that clamp to the seat tube, but they take up so much space in the frame and I'd rather use the water bottle bosses.
Re: Brakes I think I meant a picture of the lever position, not the brake pads themselves. What does the lever position look like when they're just snug, and how close to the bar can you make the lever at full tension? If those levers were bent, I'd replace them with some $10 flat-bar levers, it may involve switching the brake cable to a mtn type. If you're planning on switching back to drop bars, I'd still get new levers. If this is low-speed campus transportation, and short trips, I'd personally keep it flat bar.
Re: "patrolled" racks vs. garage... I'd go with the garage, and lock just as well. Iv'e had mixed success with outdoor racks when I was in college.
Abus 540
Kryptonite New York Standard (This one actually might be what I'm leaning to now, since it has a strap and won't need to be locked down to the water bottle braze-on).
Kryptonite Fahgeddaboutit Mini
Kryptonite New York Legend/Kryptonite New York Noose
Abus 6500
Oops here's four pictures of the levers open and tensed.
imgbox - fast, simple image host
As for the levers, yeah I've been thinking of swapping the whole brakeset, levers, calipers and pads. Any recommendations on newer cantilevers and calipers, should I stick with the current cantilevers or are v-brakes any good on an old touring bike? The commute is about 15 miles there and 15 miles back, so not sure if that would be considered short or not or if it would merit a full swap. Besides commuting, I plan to take longer trips and hopefully multi-day trips as I get more accustomed to the bike.
This might be a minority view, but I've never had any trouble with a u-lock holder bracket mounted on the seat tube. Of course, that will keep you from putting a bottle cage there and, depending on the length of the lock, might also interfere with a bottle cage on the downtube. Your call on how many bottles you need and where to put them. Me, I'd rather have my bottle on the handlebars. But since you'll almost certainly be traveling with either panniers or Wald folding baskets (I like the baskets; they make it easy to grab your stuff and go -- but they are heavy), you can always put the u-lock in there.
Amazon links aren't working, but as for where to lock up: hard to say without being familiar with the place, but while as a general rule a more public place with more "eyes on the street" is better than an out-of-the-way place, on the other hand, in an an extremely busy location the bustle and noise might actually cover up what the thief is doing. If you haven't watched "Hal grades your bike locking," you should.
As for brake levers: yeah, it's probably worth getting new ones with your new bars. It's hard to tell whether those levers have been bent, but if they have, you don't want to use them. Unlike steel, aluminum can't be bent without compromising its strength. You should be able to pick up levers real cheap at a bike co-op. BTW, everybody's got opinions on drop bars, but Nitto Noodle or Velo Orange Grand Cru Course would be my pick.
Amazon links aren't working, but as for where to lock up: hard to say without being familiar with the place, but while as a general rule a more public place with more "eyes on the street" is better than an out-of-the-way place, on the other hand, in an an extremely busy location the bustle and noise might actually cover up what the thief is doing. If you haven't watched "Hal grades your bike locking," you should.
As for brake levers: yeah, it's probably worth getting new ones with your new bars. It's hard to tell whether those levers have been bent, but if they have, you don't want to use them. Unlike steel, aluminum can't be bent without compromising its strength. You should be able to pick up levers real cheap at a bike co-op. BTW, everybody's got opinions on drop bars, but Nitto Noodle or Velo Orange Grand Cru Course would be my pick.
In terms of levers, I was wondering about the Tektro RL340 Levers and any other brands I should be looking out for in any LBS or co-op parts area?
Awesome, will definitely keep the Nitto Noodle in mind since I have seen it pop-up a few times now and it's on Amazon if I have the spare cash after all is said and done.
Also anyone have any ideas about 2017 updates to Kryptonite locks? Not sure if just Amazon or if there genuinely has been any significant design updates to their u-locks, but most seem to have the option for a "newer" version of the locks I mention.
#56
...addicted...


Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 886
Likes: 58
From: East of the River, Washington DC
Bikes: 1985 Alpine, 2007 IRO Rob Roy, 1985 Ross Mt. Whitney, 1991 Diamondback Master TG
I like the Abus 6500. At 15 each way you'll want the water bottle holder for a water bottle, but the holder for all of these mounts comes with the strap-on option. Ultimately all of those are a step above your standard U-lock and will make your bike the "not easiest" to steal, wherever you park it. Put a bottle cage on with a bottle in it and see how much room you have left.
Re: Brake levers, I really can't tell where those have been bent, if they have been, but if they were on the bike originally (they're the right era) they almost have to have been. Since you're going a pretty good distance - 15 miles is nothing to sneeze at - and want to return the bike to drop bars, I'd look for new levers. Post a WTB ad in the Classifieds section here and someone will probably have a pretty good set of levers to sell you, or peruse what others are selling. Same goes for bars, really...
Re: Brake levers, I really can't tell where those have been bent, if they have been, but if they were on the bike originally (they're the right era) they almost have to have been. Since you're going a pretty good distance - 15 miles is nothing to sneeze at - and want to return the bike to drop bars, I'd look for new levers. Post a WTB ad in the Classifieds section here and someone will probably have a pretty good set of levers to sell you, or peruse what others are selling. Same goes for bars, really...
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