Avoid cable locks.

+1 Run to the Miyata 610.

Just about any of those "Sports" models you mentioned could be good candidates in good condition. I'd recommend any of the "sports tourers" from the late 70's or early 80's. Comfy bikes with eyelets for racks and room for bigg-ish tires. I do have a preference and bigger is better IMHO.

If you find yourself with a bike that has 27" wheels, go to the co-op and swap for some 700c wheels (will likely cost $$, but they will have the tools to do the job of swapping freewheels if need be, and you can test fit to see if you have enough brake reach). Then you can likely slap some fatty Paselas on there, at least 35mm, maybe even 38's.

Best of luck!

W/R/T saddles: start by riding what you've got. If you find no problems, you're fine. You can do a lot with saddle adjustments -- both the angle and the back/front position. If the stock saddle is really making your butt unhappy, though, I'd say your next move is just to try others until you find what works for you; while some people do like various plastic saddles, a lot of us around here are loyal to leather. I've bought a lot of no-name vintage leather saddles on eBay; some were great, some were terrible. You really just have to try them and see. As I said, most people are pretty happy with Brooks, but they're expensive and, in your situation, possibly a theft problem.

Most people can ride just about any decent saddle for 15 miles. But some saddles only belong on the wall of shame's "A$$ Hatchets." I find that the more gel in a saddle, the shorter the distance it is intended to be ridden and in an upright position. Perhaps that's why lots of us prefer leather.

My first choice when people ask about good, reasonably priced commuter bikes is the Trek 7xx (700, 720, 750, etc.) steel hybrid. They can be found cheap, have great parts, braze-ons for racks, clearance for big tires, and blend right in on the bike rack. The higher the middle number in the model, the better the parts.

Quick update:
Talked to the owner of the Miyata 610,he said he'd let me go have a look on Monday. Doesn't sound like he knows much about the bike, but based on pictures it looks like frame has a few light scratches, possibly a previous owner swapped out the bars for a simple flat bar, and saddle has been thrashed. Hopefully nothing else is wrong with it otherwise I think it'll be okay still. Currently my top choice. However, I was wondering how it would compare with the Fiji and Trek shown earlier. Unfortunately the Schwinn seller was firm on price so probably won't go with it.

After some digging around, the mountain bikes I've found are $150 Trek Single-track, very well taken care of, $150 Cannondale Killer V, also very well taken care of it seems, $80 Marin Muir woods, $90 Marin (can't quite tell by picture but something Valley), and a $55 Trek multitrack 720 in good shape.

If you mean the Trek MTB, I would still lean towards the Miyata first, the Fuji second. The Fuji is probably made with VaLite - fancy gas pipe. It'll be heavier than a sexy, hot rod road bike, but probably ride quite nicely. It might even ride nicer than the 610 which has a stiffer touring frame intended to be loaded down. It has decent Fuji-labeled components - all very serviceable. It could be tuned up and ready to go quite quickly if the consumables are in good shape.

The Trek MTB would take some adapting to make it ready for commuting unless you feel comfortable on flat bars.

You're getting close, I can feel it!

$55 is a screaming deal on a Trek multitrack, though if memory serves correctly the single track was a higher-end bike all around. You'll want to avoid anything with suspension/shocks for commuting, which might rule out the Cannondale, though it's a nice bike. None of them are a better choice than the Miyata, in my opinion.

Agreed... $55 is dirt cheap, if it's in his size. The Single Track was a mountain bike with 26" tires. They can be made into decent commuters with the addition of Panaracer T-Serv or Kenda Kiniption tires, but the Multitrack has 700C tires for maximum versatility.

Nishiki International - $100 (Pasadena, CA)

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sg...247028565.html



UNIVEGA gran sprint - $160 (Torrance, CA)

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/ws...241602243.html



Ross Signature 292S - $160 (Alhambra, CA)

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/la...244058328.html

I just saw that you were searching in San Diego and Orange County too.

Trek Touring bike* - $145
Lotus Odyssey - $145 (laguna beach, CA)
*620?, 720?

https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/...247469740.html






This is too small, but I'm posting so I can look like a smarty-pants

Bridgestone T-500 - $120 (Westminster, CA)

https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/...241346148.html



The black Apex looks too big for technical off-road use, but you could probably swing a leg over it for commuting or gravel duty. Cool, oft-overlooked bikes from an underrated brand with mid-fork mounts as well!

Diamond Back Apex - $80 (Carlsbad, CA)

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/...241792638.html



Diamondback Apex - $100 (Escondido, CA)

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/...245496512.html

I have a Miyata 610 from '84 and I'd be all over the one you mentioned. That said if I lived in Cali that TREK would be mine. Reynolds 531, canti brakes and rack brazes for 135.00 ?!? Surprised it's not sold. It would be gone in a day in Chicago.

I'm getting more and more pumped by the day to go check it out Monday. I really hope I can snag it. So far, it sounds like it's all mine despite having been posted for over a month! Oddly enough I'm beginning to feel like, at least in LA and maybe OC and SD, the demand is super low at the moment. I feel like I keep spotting bikes sitting a week+ for pretty cheap that other posters would die to have.

This is awesome! Thanks man! I appreciate it a ton! Really appreciate all the help and support since I was totally clueless starting out (definitely still ton to learn but I'm really excited).

I feel so pumped that I may have landed the Miyata. Been keeping me up at night just dreading the idea it won't fit me or something goes wrong. Fingers crossed it fits well! Even if I can't haggle the guy down any lower, I don't think I could be unsatisfied. Just ready to ride

any old school 70's-80's centurion, nishiki, or raleigh should be good. Even the basic road bikes in that era with stem shifters and tange 5 steel are still great bikes and sturdy. Other options would be older specialized sirrus, giant cypress etc as these bikes are more relaxed city fit.

I would stay away from a Sirrus, they didn't come along until late 80's and are race oriented - no room for fat (or even normal) tires.


Man there are a lot of awesome options here - That Trek would be a fantastic alternative, might even get bumped to the top as it's MUSA-approved. Looks like an 86BCD crank that could easlily be made into a super compact setup. Odd that I can't seem to place it though. Must be 81-83 with braze-on cable guides and the decals. But the color looks like later 80's. I'd check the serial # against the Trek list. Those low-rider mounts are throwing me too.

I have a 2001 specialized sirrus and it fits 700 x 32 tires easily but I run armadillo 700 x 30 on em. If sirrus is race oriented then I am doing something wrong. To me it is a hybrid bike meant to have good specs and groupset and quality rims but not meant for racing. More so fast touring or city biking.

That's a very different bike than the first Sirrus introduced - it became more of a hybrid model by that time. Some even had flat bars.

I see what you mean. I never had a sirrus other than early - mid 2000's sirrus. Good point.

Having ridden the Glendale to LA bike path a gazillion times, I can say that dropped bars are advisable. It can get windy. Obviously upright bars are fine too, if you don't mind going a little slower.

Another quick update:

Going to finally see the Miyata 610 tomorrow! Here's a few pictures that I got of it from the owner. As a triple check, anyone see anything I should be aware of on the bike in terms of parts, fit or just general info I should know based on these few pics?

https://ibb.co/evhgzv
https://ibb.co/kwotCF
https://ibb.co/d2u3ev

Also I definitely think I'll be swapping the flat bar for dropped bars and having a look around for saddles soon.

Wheels look a bit dubious, but it's tough to see from those pictures. Is that chrome steel I see? Maybe they got spray painted? QR skewers are twisted on like butterfly nuts, which tends to indicate it has not been maintained by anybody that had a clue as to what they were doing. I guess what I'm saying is I'd expect this bike needs a complete breakdown and overhaul.

But so what, a 610 for that is great. Wheels that old will be trashed anway. By a $120 set of Velomine M13 wheels and be done with it.

Just got the Miyata 610, managed to get it for $85! Took it, gave it a quick clean, tossed it in my girlfriend's car and told her to floor.

Overall bike seems solid, no dents and minor scratches (or just rust?). 32 -
660 / 27 x 1/4" Streetster tires, chain and brake pads seem to have been recently replaced since the owner rode it every week until about 3 months ago. There is some squeak under hard braking but I imagine that's the rims right? Rims were probably spray painted by a previous owner since the quick release skewers look pretty unevenly painted. Not sure if the quick release skewers are just old or if the paint made them harder to come free, but they come take some effort. Rims seem to be in decent shape though, rideable at least while I make some money for new ones. Bars were swapped with flat bars from a Specialized bike but the rest seems original Suntour components, Suntour Mountech FD and RD, downtube shifters, QR skewers, and Dia compe 981 brakes with Dia compe regular levers. I'll post pictures later, but completely satisfied. Thank you everyone for all the help.

Congrats!

There's probably no adjustment in those cantilever brakes to do a 700c conversion. Only need 4mm, but doesn't look like 981's have any vertical adjustment at all.

Now that you've got the bike, get a good lock for it!

I like the ABUS link locks like the Bordo 6000. If you want to be super secure you can get a cable for the front tire. Make sure any accessories (lights) are quick-release and come off every time you leave it at a public bike rack. It only takes a second to un-do them, and if you don't, someone else will.

A good lock will cost more than your bike. It's insurance against buying another bike, and will be cheaper in the long run, I've been using my ABUS lock for 10 years. It doesn't need upgrading when I upgrade my bikes!

edit: That's totally a score!
Look out for the brake levers, they're meant for drop bars, and putting them on flat bars like that means they were probably bent out so that they'd have enough travel. Either that or they don't have enough travel, which could be a safety issue. Take some close-up shots of the levers, and of the brakes when relaxed, just snugged to the rim, and clenched. Ideally the cable and housing will run out of flex before the lever hits the grip.

Does it look like the drop bar levers were put on that flat bar to anyone else?

Ha! Ok, so yes it does.

Yes, and straightened to do it. It's going to need some attention for safety issues. Either fatigued aluminum or not enough reach.