I used the threaded rod method RJ describes in that video one time. I started out by constructing the DIY frame alignment gauge that he describes in another video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9bPiAi_KQc). It turned out that the frame I was working with was a bit out of alignment to start with. I decided to use the threaded rod method and then try to correct it with a 2x4. In one of the single greatest proofs ever that I live a charmed life, the alignment turned out to be perfect after I spread it -- no correction necessary. I should have run right out and bought a lottery ticket.

The key point is, you need to check the alignment regardless of the method you use and you should expect to have to make corrections, which you can't really do with the threaded rod. A 2x4 can be used to supplement. The DIY alignment gauge that RJ describes is functionally equivalent to the Park F A G-2 (I hope that doesn't get auto-censored) assuming you don't get warped wood (I hope that doesn't get auto-censored either). It's cheap and IME much easier than the string method Sheldon describes.

That said, I've also cold set a frame with the proper tool (the Park FFS-2) and that is much easier and will usually involve less back and forth. The FFS-2 would also be a very handy tool to have around in the event of a zombie apocalypse.



Regardless of the method you use, go slowly, measure often, make small adjustments.