Frame pulling
09-01-17 | 05:47 AM
#26
ambulatory senior
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 6,451
Likes: 4,514
From: Peoria Il
Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
as for the 27-700c change, remember you only have to drop the brake pads 4 mm to make the switch. this is usually doable and results in a few more options on tires. i have made this conversion about a million times and never needed to buy new brakes.
09-01-17 | 05:54 AM
#27
Bianchi Goddess
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 28,888
Likes: 4,125
From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
I think we need to stop arguing about and how to and reel the OP back in and help him.
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
09-02-17 | 12:05 AM
#28
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Wheels
If your bike has steel wheels they are likely 27" rims. Are the new wheels they are trying to sell you 27" or 700c? They should be able to get you alloy 27" wheels that will fit your frame with almost no modification.
If they are trying to sell you 700c wheels you may also need new brakes.....you don't want that you just need the right 27" wheels.
I forgot the freewheel (the cogs on the back wheel). they should screw off your old wheel and on to the new ones and you should not have to buy a cassette style stack of cogs.
Where do you live? I am sure there is one of near by who would be happy to help you sort this out.
If they are trying to sell you 700c wheels you may also need new brakes.....you don't want that you just need the right 27" wheels.
I forgot the freewheel (the cogs on the back wheel). they should screw off your old wheel and on to the new ones and you should not have to buy a cassette style stack of cogs.
Where do you live? I am sure there is one of near by who would be happy to help you sort this out.
09-02-17 | 03:45 AM
#29
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 17,196
Likes: 761
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
lonely, does your frame have any decals that might say what the tubing is? Bianchigirls point is very well taken. It would be easy to put into this bike much more than it would be worth even as mint condition.
09-02-17 | 01:02 PM
#30
It is likely that 135mm will eventually be adopted by road standards, but we're not there yet, and I wouldn't be too eager to jump ahead of the game. There are also reasons why the industry isn't eager to change.
Technically the current standard is the 131mm, but everyone seems to ignore that extra mm.
As far as cold setting or not, there are equally valid arguments either way. I run friction shifters on my old bike with 9 speed on the rear and vintage 5/6 speed on the front. So far I haven't cold set it, but run an off center rim instead. Since I have several bikes, there would be advantages to making everything match, but I prefer having one wheel set per bike anyway.
Technically the current standard is the 131mm, but everyone seems to ignore that extra mm.
As far as cold setting or not, there are equally valid arguments either way. I run friction shifters on my old bike with 9 speed on the rear and vintage 5/6 speed on the front. So far I haven't cold set it, but run an off center rim instead. Since I have several bikes, there would be advantages to making everything match, but I prefer having one wheel set per bike anyway.
A tragic tale overall, sued by Specialized, they came away intact but poor, then one of the founders sustained a nasty crash that put the skewer in the business.
09-02-17 | 02:18 PM
#31
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 9,809
Likes: 1,781
From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
The late Volagi bike company's first models had 135 rear spacing, they used disc brakes and went to the mtb parts bin for hubs. When "29ers" caught on, the oddness became less so, but I don't see a rush to adopt 135 spacing road hubs.
A tragic tale overall, sued by Specialized, they came away intact but poor, then one of the founders sustained a nasty crash that put the skewer in the business.
A tragic tale overall, sued by Specialized, they came away intact but poor, then one of the founders sustained a nasty crash that put the skewer in the business.
Of course all of the disc-braked road bikes and cyclocross bikes are using 135mm, which puts the manufacturers of cranks in a bit of a quandary when it comes to Q and to chainline.
I installed a 9100 crankset onto a Cervelo recently, and after centering up the chainline with the center cog of the cassette, noticed that the left crankarm was several mm further out from the rim than on the right.
So apparently this crankset is optimized even more for 135mm than for 130mm, and in part this bias might reflect the added freedom of frame design that wider spacing affords, especially when wide tires are to be accommodated. To me this is going backward and I would use a different crank unless it was a disc-braked bike I was installing it to.
