Originally Posted by
fietsbob
Just an aside, You should specify a cold forged crank , or they may use a cast crankarm set..
the 2nd hand Tikit, spontaneously seemed to lose the pedal threads, in the cost saving cast crank, *
Fortunately, I had an old D-A square taper crank set, in my parts bin, , so I put it on
and recycled the metal in the original , cast, aluminum one..
* guy I got it from sent some money, back, 'beer money' for while I was working out the bugs..
Given the choice, I'd specify the belt ready feature, even if you go for the chain drive initially ,
since the stay opening feature (To let the belt pass thru), is only able to done in building it..
...
I'll ask them about a "belt-ready" option, if it is not a crazy upgrade cost, it makes sense. Best of both.
My NWT had these stock cranks when I got it with the square taper bb - when I had my overhaul I had them swap in some FSA cranks with a hollowtech bb and I really really loved the difference (of course, they were shorter as well).
That's why I'm wondering about not getting the stock cranks again, they just didn't move smoothly imo.
Do you know if they can just put the FSA's (or something else) and a hollowtech on the Pakit or does being SS make it an issue?