Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 5,384
From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Well one could start with a tool list. Look at the OEM system and list the various tools needed to remove (hex wrenches, Torx wrenches being the typical). The with the new systems in front of you repeat the tool list for the new parts.
With the new in front of you one can examine both new and OEM and see the possible issues at hand. making sure that the rotor mount specs and the caliper mounting specs match (rotor diameters, frame mount method and any adaptors, hose securements to the frame, lever compatibility with grips and shift controls).
After these reviews and assessments you might feel far more one way or the other way about tackling the project on your own. I would not make any decisions before you have the new in hand.
Generally aftermarket hose lengths work well for the middle of the bell curve of possible hose length needs for any one bike. But the hoses tend to be a tad longer then shorter to also fit larger bikes. many are OK with some hose flopping about, in fact if you're an aggressive rider who gets air then running hoses a tad long is a really good idea (crashing can stress hoses and cause problems if the hose is too short to allow the bars to wail about). Here in the States the rear caliper is usually attached to the RH lever. If one runs their brakes with the front brake on the RH lever this would entail switching hoses from lever to lever. This can be done carefully and often not need a bleed after many times. But if shortening the hose or if fumble thumbed when swapping sides then plan on bleeding.
So add bleed tools and fluids to your tool list before doing any work. (In time you'll need to bleed or replace the brake fluid so you might as well have this capacity on hand from the start).
What we often suggest to our customers is "go ahead but don't tighten anything down fully initially. If you mess something up or get to a hurdle you can't handle bring the bike in and we'll take over and do the rest. By not initially tightening down to final torques redoing is easier and the chance of screwing up fittings is far less." Good luck. Andy