I’m toying with the idea of replacing mechanical disk brakes with hydraulic ones. My local bike shop will do this for me if I supply the parts. They will charge around 60 GBP for labour. If I go for this option then the job is likely to be done well. However, this would mean I don’t get to learn how to do it myself and I’m keen to expand my bike mechanics skills.

I need to remove the existing mechanical braking system and replace the rotors, levers, hoses and calipers with hydraulic ones. The one slightly complicating factor is that the rear brake cable is internally routed.

My current skills are quite low. I can do the most basic of things like change rotors, index gears, change a BB, re-torque everything properly, etc.

The local bike shop will shorten the hydraulic hoses and re-bleed as required.

If you were in my situation would you try this yourself or leave it to your LBS?

Well one could start with a tool list. Look at the OEM system and list the various tools needed to remove (hex wrenches, Torx wrenches being the typical). The with the new systems in front of you repeat the tool list for the new parts.


With the new in front of you one can examine both new and OEM and see the possible issues at hand. making sure that the rotor mount specs and the caliper mounting specs match (rotor diameters, frame mount method and any adaptors, hose securements to the frame, lever compatibility with grips and shift controls).


After these reviews and assessments you might feel far more one way or the other way about tackling the project on your own. I would not make any decisions before you have the new in hand.


Generally aftermarket hose lengths work well for the middle of the bell curve of possible hose length needs for any one bike. But the hoses tend to be a tad longer then shorter to also fit larger bikes. many are OK with some hose flopping about, in fact if you're an aggressive rider who gets air then running hoses a tad long is a really good idea (crashing can stress hoses and cause problems if the hose is too short to allow the bars to wail about). Here in the States the rear caliper is usually attached to the RH lever. If one runs their brakes with the front brake on the RH lever this would entail switching hoses from lever to lever. This can be done carefully and often not need a bleed after many times. But if shortening the hose or if fumble thumbed when swapping sides then plan on bleeding.


So add bleed tools and fluids to your tool list before doing any work. (In time you'll need to bleed or replace the brake fluid so you might as well have this capacity on hand from the start).


What we often suggest to our customers is "go ahead but don't tighten anything down fully initially. If you mess something up or get to a hurdle you can't handle bring the bike in and we'll take over and do the rest. By not initially tightening down to final torques redoing is easier and the chance of screwing up fittings is far less." Good luck. Andy

Thank you, Andrew. That’s a good methodology to get me started. I’m in no rush at all. My local bike shop is literally around the corner from me in case things go wrong.

I’m shopping for bleeding kits and any other bits and pieces I may need like spare olives, for example.

I contacted the manufacturer today to ask about the internal brake cabling and the bike does not have cable channels inside the frame. They suggested I simply attach the new brake hose to the end of the old one and carefully push-pull the new hose through.

I have mixed feelings about running hoses internally. While they will be less out and about this will require a drain down, refill and bleeding. As the hoses and cylinders will retain some fluid the chance of a lot of air at various spots is less. But air can get trapped easily even in a system that has well wetted insides before filling. If you're going to cut down hose length consider getting a spare rear hose just in case you find out you cut one too short after riding the bike for real after the install. Andy