Originally Posted by
cyccommute
Honestly, wet lubricants aren't champions of wet weather performance either. Neither lubricant does all that well in wet conditions and needs to be refreshed after use. The difference is that dry lubricants don't float off the surface of the metal as easily as oil based lubricants do. As an added bonus, dry lubricants don't attract the grit that wet lubes do and work to keep it out of the chain.
I haven't used any other lubricant for (about) 20 years. In that time frame, I've toured throughout most of the US in every summer condition imaginable and not found dry lubricants to be all that bad even during downpours.
I've also commuted to work extensively over that same time period in every imaginable condition including snow, ice storms, thunderstorms and even a few inches of hail. The only problem I've encountered has been applying dry lubricant to a cold chain. It doesn't work all that well. Thankfully, I'm allowed to bring my bike into the building at work so I add lubricant there if needed.
Thanks. Great knowledge and experience shared.
For all my practical and theoretical knowledge, dry lubes should be worse at wet weather performance and are not replentished on their own when pushed away from surfaces they lubricate by chain pressure and movement. However, the commercial ones (like White Lightening) are not available where I live, so I didn't have a chance to test and compare those - in terms of chain squeaking after a rain and chain mileage comparisons.
There's also a price to consider. Chains I use are under 20$ and using a commercial lube, even if it gave a 50% longer chain life, would still make the total cost higher I think. Using a mix of diesel and chain saw bar oil doesn't collect too much dirt (better than motor oil for example). But I'll try to make a comparative test when I find the time (and the lube).
Is your chain mileage any better (or worse) after switching to dry lubes?
Edit: some practice and theory:
I had tried a Scottoiler chain lube system for motorcycles. It works by dripping a low viscosity lube over the chain, constantly. The "thin" lube gets swung off, along with any dirt stuck to the chain. While the constant replentishing keeps the chain lubed where the lube needs to be. The lube gets applied along the rear (larger) chainring, so the centrifugal force drives it into the chain, between the rollers and pins. This system makes a chain last about 5 times longer than most other lubing systems allow. Clean and lubed makes all the difference.
For bicycle dry lubes, while they keep a chain clean, they can't keep it lubed - no displaced lubricant replentishing and easier water washout. If they were able too keep a chain lubed all the time, one would probably be able to expect 3 to 5 times better chain life than with a wet lube. Using a thin wet lube that is constantly re-applied is not very practical on bicycle drivetrains. Especially since it would make a mess of the RD, and it would need to be very thin to fly off along with the dirt, since bike chain doesn't move as fast as a motorcycle chain I think (haven't calculated it yet for motorcycles so correct me if I'm wrong).
On the other hand, the lack of lubricant replentishment and water washout protection of dry lubes is compensated (to varying degrees, depending on riding conditions) by practically no dirt intrusion. Which makes a larger difference is down to riding conditions and personal preferences (how much one values a clean drivetrain for cleanliness sake).
So, in my understanding, both dry and wet bike chain lubes have their weak points. More rain, or more climbing - wet lube should perform better. Dry weather, with less climbing (or mashing gears) - dry lube is a better choice. Sand and dust being the greatest enemies of wet lubes.
Having said all this, I haven't tested any commercial dry lubes, White Lightning being the most praised one, so I'd take all written with a grain of salt.