I actually build the wheel following the
Professional Guide to Wheel Building. My freehub made made the cassette wobble laterally a bit and gave me final motivation.
Hub: Shimano Deore Centerlock. This is it is the cheapest shimano hub with all the seals. I also wanted to get away from the 6-bolt rotors, centerlock is just better. Bought from bike 24.I'm fine with cup/cone for the price. would have preferred a cartridge bearing hub. But the options for 135mm QR are thin if you want quality (i.e. DT Swiss etc.) and a good brand hub would have cost more than the whole wheel. I'm a bit nervous about cheap freehub ratchet mechanisms.
Rim:
DT Swiss 462 with 25mm internal width (from 19mm of OEM rims). Measured ERD was exactly as advertised, BTW. Bought from bike 24. The shimano data were correct, but confusing on their website and I had to measure in hand to calculate spoke length. It is ASTM Class 3 rated for 120 kg..... My use case on a hybrid is much less severe. I went for the wider rim for better comfort and rolling resistance.
Nipples: Sapim Brass (just happened to be cheaper than DT Swiss)
Spokes: 32 DT Swiss Competition double-butted 2.0/1.8/2.0. Bought from ebay since that was the cheapest place and gave em the option to buy the exact number i needed. Also needed to buy separately to measure hub/rim by hand before calculating spoke length. I was surprised NDS spokes were only 2mm longer than DS. but the rotor mount makes the dish a bit more even.
My 2" Schwalbe Marathon tires are now 50 mm wide compared to 46mm on the narrower OEM rims at same pressure. The new wheel is 110 g lighter than the OEM. This is measured with rimtape, tubeless valve and rotor since I didn't disassemble my old wheel. Pretty good considering the new rim is wider and should be heavier.
Everything went fine, took me some hours to complete. Very true and very similar tension on all drive side spokes. I didn't go exactly to Roger Musson's recommendation to have lateral trueness at 0.2mm and radial trueness at 0.5mm. I got to the point that it was very hard to see the gaps (who measures 0.2mm???). Dish is at 1mm or less (as he recommends). and any truer wheel would have made tension uneven. I used the tension meter and I'm within +/- 1 of the units the tool shows. I decided with disc brakes I can chose even tension over actual trueness. But I'm definitely way under 1mm un-trueness.
I highly recommend wheel building to anyone with ability and will to fix the bike. I had bought truing stand, dishing tool etc. for maintenance anyway. Sure, a machine built wheel is cheaper, but has lesser components even if i assume it is built well. This wheel cost me about $120 or so. A Shimano rear wheel would have cost $85. But that only has 28-straight spokes and a unnamed Shimano hub (likely not to Deore standard) and narrower rim. For just $50 more I have an overall stronger wheel with better hub.Other machine wheels are even worse since they have uneven lacing patterns, with multiple spoke lengths making repairs nearly impossible (and probably more likely).
Thanks to everyone who advised.