Originally Posted by
smontanaro
I asked a similar question not too long ago, though my situation was different:
What about backing off the nose screw on this saddle?
Lasy, procrastinating SOB that I am, I've so far only backed of the tension bolt a bit. The saddle sits. [MENTION=424205]Salamandrine[/MENTION] described (with photos) how he used Durham's Water Putty to reshape a Brooks Pro. I am planning to go one better, as I have a nicely shaped Ideal 90 Rebour. I was going to make both inside and outside casts, then use [MENTION=73614]rhm[/MENTION]'s method of fully wetting the saddle.
While it worked, and I was able to target and change one specific part of the saddle only, the inside mold was kind of a pain.
If I were to do it again, I'd probably try an outside mold, and then stuff the inside with newspaper, or a sandbag or something. IOW do sort of what RHM suggests. A vacuum bag set up would be awesome, but most people don't have that. I guess you could make an inside mold in three parts that clip together somehow. I considered it.
What I decided recently is that I only like Brooks Pros when they are still fairly new, and haven't got sit bone dents yet, but I digress.
Another thing I noticed is that all modern Brooks saddles have 5mm thick leather. Did it used to be thicker on some models?
I still remember being directed to dumpster a whole big box of Ideale leather saddles at my LBS job in about 1982. Zero demand at the time. The horror.