Originally Posted by
dsbrantjr
I prefer die-drawn un-coated stainless cables in PTFE-lined housings. There is little if any difference in frictional coefficient between PTFE on steel and PTFE on PTFE, and I have found that the coated cables are difficult to clamp effectively and are prone to the coating peeling.
As I stated above, the main reason for using Teflon coated cables is to avoid corrosion of the cable when exposed to salt. Stainless isn't resistant to salt corrosion. I've pulled many cables out of housing that is lined but the cabling was coated in salt induced corrosion products.
Originally Posted by
dsbrantjr
My understanding is that "stretching" is more of the cables bedding in to the housings than of the metal actually elongating. This even occurs when just replacing the inners; they have to wear their own groove into the housing.
Originally Posted by
Retro Grouch
I've used slick galvanized cables for decades with no issues. I like them because I prefer to solder the cut ends. I don't ride in snowy weather, though, so I can't really say if winter e=weather would change my mind.
FWIW, I doubt that cable stretch actually exists. May belief is that the cable housing ends bottom in the cable stops which makes the housings a little bit shorter.
I disagree. First, cables need adjustment after initial installation. That is a given. New inner cables
always require some adjustment of cable tension. Others have suggested that the cable tension adjustment is due to the outer cable settling into the ferrules but cable tension adjustments are
always needed even if you are using old housing. The simplest explanation for new cables needing tension readjustment is elongation of the wire cable as the cable strands twist slightly tighter when put under tension.
Cables of all varieties do stretch, from bridge cables to crane cables to bicycle cables. There is even a formula for calculation how much a cable will stretch under loads based on the load and the diameter of the cable.