Thanks for this post! I rode the route (river access to Esmeralda trail head and back) last week and enjoyed it! Beautiful scenery indeed. There was a trace of smoke in the air due to forest fires. FYI There is construction activity 1/4 of a mile near the trail head which results in road closures. Don't get discouraged as to turn around. The closures last a few minutes only as crews maneuver their trucks.