A few comments-

-If the fork has a carbon steerer take care to not exceed the manufacturer's limit as to how much steerer is allowed to extend above the headset's upper stack. Most of the better manufacturers have a limit as to how high up the steerer the stem can be placed.
-Understand that a suspension fork has it's crown race seat (where the headset's lower stack fits) high enough above the tire to allow for the suspension travel. A replacement fork that is solid often will have less height and thus will somewhat change the frame's stance (or steepen the steering angle). Whether this is good or bad is subject to opinion
-Most carbon forks don't allow or have canti/linier brake bosses. The ones that do tend to be fairly pricy as their construction is more involved.
-Handle bar grip location is a result of the stem's placement on the fork's steerer, the stem's shape/angle/length and the handle bar's shape/rise/sweep back. We do bar and stem swaps for fit issues frequently and find that often the solution is best had with both stem and bar swaps.
-Adjustable stems often have restrictions for their use. "No off road use" is a common limit. Since so few riders keep ahead of their (new) bike's maintenance a stem's design that relies on keeping bolts tight to insure it's safety might be considered a poor design. I can easily say that many, maybe most, of the adjustable stems I touch are already somewhat loose (bike tune ups, flat tire service being the two most common reasons to see a bike in the shop).

If I were the OP I would first consider a one piece/solid stem of a dimension that got the bars/grips as close to where I wanted them to be. Only after this would I look at bar changes and the fork would be the last thing I would consider. If the bike came with a suspension fork I suspect there are other aspects that also be less then ideal (if the OP really thinks a solid fork is the right way to go). Rarely do I find a rider who is long term happy with a bike that has had such a major change, as a fork is. Andy