I have a Multitrek 7200 (2005).

I believe the steering tube is 1-1/8 but in honestity I'm not sure, unless I actually pull it out and measure it. So in a way my whole discussion might be useless.

The adjustable quill on my bike is having movement. One of the socket screws on the left is stripped out and can't be removed. I have tighten the other one as much as I can. However the fork on the front is a cheap (spring only) suspension type and I really don't do enough to use it. It has movement inside as well.

My thinking is this. I was thinking of moving it over to a threadless headset and possibly going over to a carbon fiber fork. I see carbon fiber forks on ebay around 150 or so. The other issue is I see many of them don't have v-brake lugs, I'm assuming this is common? Does going thru this make any sense or should I simply just replace my quill and keep everything the same. I also understand that with threadless you don't get the "elevated" handlebar?

This is what I'm looking at on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Redline-Carbon-Fiber-FORK-tapered-1-1-8-1-5-200mm-steerer-395mm-axle2crown/123031323219?hash=item1ca53d0253:g:16AAAOSwgptasE2j:rk:146f:0&LH_BIN=1

A few comments-

-If the fork has a carbon steerer take care to not exceed the manufacturer's limit as to how much steerer is allowed to extend above the headset's upper stack. Most of the better manufacturers have a limit as to how high up the steerer the stem can be placed.
-Understand that a suspension fork has it's crown race seat (where the headset's lower stack fits) high enough above the tire to allow for the suspension travel. A replacement fork that is solid often will have less height and thus will somewhat change the frame's stance (or steepen the steering angle). Whether this is good or bad is subject to opinion
-Most carbon forks don't allow or have canti/linier brake bosses. The ones that do tend to be fairly pricy as their construction is more involved.
-Handle bar grip location is a result of the stem's placement on the fork's steerer, the stem's shape/angle/length and the handle bar's shape/rise/sweep back. We do bar and stem swaps for fit issues frequently and find that often the solution is best had with both stem and bar swaps.
-Adjustable stems often have restrictions for their use. "No off road use" is a common limit. Since so few riders keep ahead of their (new) bike's maintenance a stem's design that relies on keeping bolts tight to insure it's safety might be considered a poor design. I can easily say that many, maybe most, of the adjustable stems I touch are already somewhat loose (bike tune ups, flat tire service being the two most common reasons to see a bike in the shop).

If I were the OP I would first consider a one piece/solid stem of a dimension that got the bars/grips as close to where I wanted them to be. Only after this would I look at bar changes and the fork would be the last thing I would consider. If the bike came with a suspension fork I suspect there are other aspects that also be less then ideal (if the OP really thinks a solid fork is the right way to go). Rarely do I find a rider who is long term happy with a bike that has had such a major change, as a fork is. Andy

Of course it's possible.

Unfortunately, you have revealed enough information for me to advise you not to start down the road. Switching from a suspension fork to a rigid fork can involve trail issues. Switching from linear pull brakes to caliper brakes can involve clearance problems. Replacing your fork, headset, stem, and brake is a lot of stuff.

Thanks,

I'm thinking now to drop the Carbon fork idea. So I see some nice adjustable quill stems such as this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunlite-Adjustable-Stem-90mm-length-X-25-4mm-diameter-180mm-quill-length/283180340508?epid=1700089234&hash=item41eedd151c:g:7jkAAOxy4dNSqNFU:rk:22f:0&LH_BIN=1

It has degree measurement etc. You indicate these likely would not be for road use?

Also it see several nice threaded metal (aluminum/steel) rigid forks, such as this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TREK-ALUMINUM-700C-THREADED-FORK-1-1-8/302920908322?hash=item46877e3e22:g:UY4AAOSwj~9blr14:rk:3f:0&LH_BIN=1

That fork seems pretty similar to what I have just without the spring portion.

I simply don't like the suspension that much.

Thanks,

I'm thinking now to drop the Carbon fork idea. So I see some nice adjustable quill stems such as this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunlite-Adjustable-Stem-90mm-length-X-25-4mm-diameter-180mm-quill-length/283180340508?epid=1700089234&hash=item41eedd151c:g:7jkAAOxy4dNSqNFU:rk:22f:0&LH_BIN=1

It has degree measurement etc. You indicate these likely would not be for road use?
Other then to transfer to another, but rigid, stem why do you need an angle readout? I specifically said "no off road use". Where do you get the idea of road use being restricted?

Also it see several nice threaded metal (aluminum/steel) rigid forks, such as this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TREK-ALUMINUM-700C-THREADED-FORK-1-1-8/302920908322?hash=item46877e3e22:g:UY4AAOSwj~9blr14:rk:3f:0&LH_BIN=1

That fork seems pretty similar to what I have just without the spring portion.
Maybe. How tall is your current steerer? You need to make sure that the head tube and headset stack dimension on your bike are not too short (or long) to not allow this fork to fit without having to rethread further down the steerer (a job I strongly suggest is not done if at all possible). You still have the issue of buying a fork you can't measure and/or test fit your wheel and brakes to. I hope this won't be the 3rd fork you can't use.

I simply don't like the suspension that much.
Excepting off road use I agree. Andy

..probably not what you want to hear, but when you're talking about buying and changing out all the stuff you're talking about on a bike like a Multitrek 7200, it's always best to take time to consider if you might be better served by looking for a different , used bike without that suspension fork and better suited to your needs on your local CL.

Nashbar has a carbon fork with canti/v brake bosses for $100. You can get a decent generic headset for $15. Same thing for the stem. Add another $10 for a pack of spacers so you can actually raise it up.

That puts you at under $150 if you can do the work yourself. If not, I bet a shop would charge $75-$100 to do it, even though it's super easy to do.

Then you're out $225, with questionable ride quality, a big unknown for fit and handling, all on a bike that's probably worth about $300.

Yeah I get your drift. I understand it's not a high end bike. But it's my first bike and I've gain some "attachment" towards it. I've also been using this bike as a foundation to learn how to work on bikes. I have for example replaced the BB, relaced the wheel with a new hub (yeah I relaced spokes). Replace the chain, front derailleur. New rim tape. Of course new shifters and shift cables (inner) and brake cables. Also learned how to adjust derailleur etc...

I've learned a ****-ton about working on bikes by this bike.

...if that's the case, you can probably do something (that is cheaper) using used parts, either from a donor bike or from something you find at a bike co-op. Assuming you can find a bike co-op withing a reasonable distance. If you're looking for a donor bike (also on CL), you get the added learning experience of measuring the current fork steerer (length and diameter) and getting some idea of how much length you need on the donor steerer to go threadless, and there are a lot of informational things on the interweb (here and other places) on the things you need to consider (like height, trail, and wheel size/brake fittings) in a replacement fork.

This is my motivator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHcjh4O20ko

Seems he's going thru everything. Except his new fork seems to be "just the right length" so no cutting. I'm understanding in order to cut a tube you'd need a special "guide" that holds the saw blade straight. I guess you could get away with using a pipe cutter maybe?

His new fork also has v-brake bosses. It seems pretty straightforward to me....

I generally use a metal hose clamp (a "jubilee clip") of the requisite size for cutting steerers. Once you tighten it up medium tight, it automatically positions itself perpendicularly to the steerer axis, and provides a good cutting guide. Remember, the old maxim "measure twice, cut once" is particularly relevant when cutting steerers - mistakes here can be pretty costly. Not sure which pipe cutter you're talking about, but I presume not one that is used to cut copper pipe - these rely on the relative softness of the copper, and likely won't get through a steel steerer

1 1/8" threaded headset forks had a shorter run than the 1" .
before un threaded 1.125" took over..

A stem fitting in a 9/8" fork is 1" in diameter,
matching the inside diameter of the steering tube.
25.4mm (headset wrench 36mm )

a 1" threaded fork the stem is 7/8" in diameter ..
22.2mm.. (headset wrench 32mm )

I use something like a clamp or a scrap stem (the clamp end), which is what I'm using now as a guide.
If you go off a little from straight, clean it up with a file. You probably ought to clean up any hacksaw cut with a file anyway.

If the steerer is aluminum (unlikely) you can use a pipe cutter made for copper, but if it's steel, you need a bigger one designed for steel pipe.

If the steerer is CF reinforced plastic, you need to tape it and cut with a hacksaw, and don't compress it when you clamp it to cut.

Not sure if your reference of using a pipe cutter is on a threaded steerer or a threadless one. But on a threaded one the pipe cutter will want to follow the threads and work it way along the steerer, traveling in a helix. As I understand pipe cutters they are used when the tube is rather soft, CU or AL, not steel or carbon. Andy

Sorry my pipe cutter reference is in regards to a threadless. I believe there are galvanized pipe cutters that will cut pretty deep (non copper types). But I don't think I would use a pipe cutter at first.

One of the bike shop tools is a hacksaw cutting guide ..Park tool offers this one ..