Old 01-11-19, 08:50 AM
  #19  
Ironfish653
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 914

Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 Softride

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 299 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by luevelvet View Post
A quick update. I cleaned out and lightly greased the rear DR and shifter just in case there was something goofy going on there. No luck. I then decided to start from scratch, set the DR to the highest gear (smallest cog) loosened the cable clamp on the DR and adjusted the high bolt setting. From there I pushed the DR all the way up to the lowest gear (largest cog) and set the low bolt. From there I put the rear DR back onto the smallest cog and gave the cable a little tension and tightened the cable clamp bolt. Then I began re-indexing all gears from the largest chain ring (per the Park tutorial linked above). On the stand the gears all shift smoothly. Move it down to the smaller chain ring and there is some tweaking to be done there. I'm not sure if indexing on one chain ring should be enough to keep everything in check so I decided to tweak the tension knob 1/4 turn at a time until the small chain ring was indexed perfectly and smooth. Shift back up to the large chain ring and checked it on the stand and everything appears to be indexed and shifting smoothly.
So you're having problems shifting from the bigger cogs down to the smaller ones? You may have your cable too tight, if there's no binding in the system some where.
I might re-set the RD cable again, but with a slightly different sequence.
-Put the bike in the big ring and the small cog. Remove the cable from the RD. Make sure all your adjusters are 'in'
-Set the H-stop.
-Attach the cable3. I try to hold the cable taut when I tighten the clamp screw.
-Start shifting up to the bigger cogs, one at a time. I usually go up 3, then back down 2, to see how my cable tension is.
Too loose, and it won't make the next cog, too tight, and it'll skip gears coming back down. I don't do tension adjustments on the small cog, since the limit stop holds the DR, but the next 2 up, since the cable is 'live'
-Once you get to the big cog, set the L-stop.
I usually only do the bottom 2/3 of the cassette on the big ring, and save the big cogs for the small ring. You don't ever run big-big, so no sense trying to tune that combination to work right.

Other things to consider: The H/L screws on the RD don't have anything to do with the indexing. They're just the limit stops so you don't shift off the end of the cassette. The shifter controls the indexing, and the cable tension adjusts the RD to those shift points.
The brand of crank/rings doesn't really matter to the RD, but the BB width, 'Q-factor' and chainstay length will affect shift quality. Small frames with short chainstays are more finicky than larger frames. A 48cm XS will often be a lot touchier to set up than the exact same bike in a 56cm

Finally, check the RD hanger and jockey cage alignment. 10- and 11-speed systems are very sensitive to this, due to the tight spacing on the cassettes, much more so than 9-speed.
Ironfish653 is offline