Old 01-22-06 | 11:29 AM
  #21  
Matt Gaunt's Avatar
Matt Gaunt
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,304
Likes: 1
From: London, UK
Originally Posted by Old Hammer Boy
Weight, precision (in most cases), quality materials, but not alway durability, marketing. Now, let me give you my philosophy about purchasing almost anything. I like to buy at level 2, or one down from the top. Usually level 2 products have most of the features, quality and engineering of level 1, but not some of the (perhaps needless) bells and whistles for the marginally large jump in price for what is often the prestige associated with "top of the line." Of course there are exceptions to every rule, but throughout my life I've found this to work out for me. No doubt, owning the top of the line can be good for one's psyche, but in terms of the old pocket book, level 2 seems to be the best value most of the time. That's my opinion... OHB

Wise words. I totally agree: check my sig and it completely corresponds. Here are some examples of where you notice the difference between the lower grades and the 2nd or even top group:
- sealed bearings in the jockey wheels as opposed to plastic bushings
- lighter and more durable alloys used throughout (usually but not always), for example, SRAM stuff is plastic until pretty much the top group.
- more serviceable - for example individual chainrings can be replaced instead of the whole chainset
- better technology employed - for example, parallel push V-brakes as opposed to arc-push on the higher end Shimano stuff, and the use of outboard bearings with HollowTechII as opposed to Octalink and HollowTech cranks
- stiffer transmission

As far as I'm aware, none of these is particularly noticeable between the 2nd group and the top group.

Hope that helps a bit.
__________________
Matt
2018 Enigma Excel Pic|| 2010 Kinesis Decade Convert2 Pic || 2008 Kinesis RC2 Pics || 2007 Kinesis Pha5e Pics || 2005 Kinesis RC Pics || 1996 Raleigh Max Pics
Matt Gaunt is offline  
Reply