Raleigh before
raleigh after clear coat
ItalVega white lacquer over white.
Atala stripped and painted red enamel. no clear coat
frame primed ready for color
I have repainted a number of frames using Rustoleum Enamel and also Lacquer.
On one old Raleigh 3 spd that was very rusty I coated the entire frame (with the paint on ) in Navel jelly. It removed most of the surface rust. Then I rubbed the paint with white polishing compound and sprayed a clear coat of Rustoleum Clear acrylic lacquer over everything. Looked pretty good.
Another bike , a white ItalVega was treated with Naval Jelly, spot primed with light grey primer, sanded with 1000 grit wet/dri sand paper, And sprayed with Rustoleum White lacquer. then clear coated with Rustoleum clear lacquer.
Stil other bikes , including an Atala, were coated in paint stripper. Then the paint was scraped off using a single edge razor blade dragged across the paint. The lugs, especially the bottom bracket, were then sand blasted with my $25. sand blast kit . Then the rest of the frame was sanded with a vibrator sander with 150 grit paper. Next the frame was hand sanded with 400 grit wet dry paper and wiped down with acetone. Starting with the final wipe down WEAR RUBBER GLOVES.
under no circumstances touch the frame with your bare hands from now on as the oil from your fingers will contaminate the surface. Also , don't blow off the frame with an air compressor as there may be traces of oil in the air which will contaminate the surface. finally don't wipe down newly painted surfaces with alcohol or acetone as it will wipe off the paint. never use painters solvent as it has acetone in it. use only paint thinner but don't use it during painting . The only thing that should touch the paint is water and a clean tack rag.
After wiping down with acetone wipe down with a tack rag then immediately start painting the primer coat. I have a set of large Jorgesen wood working clamps and I use one to clamp an old seat post in a vertical position on a bench outside and I set the bike upside down on it. (paint when there is no wind so you won't kick up dust). After I have sprayed the bottom of the frame I carefully turn it over and clamp the bottom bracket to hold it in position.
When spraying READ THE LABEL on the can. Spray in quick light passes and beware, if you lay it on heavy it will run. Pay attention to the dry times. Don't rush it.
After spraying the primer and letting it dry 48 hrs glove up and inspect your work. Any runs can be carefully sanded with 600 or 1000 grit, You WILL find a spot or two where you didn't get any paint. Touch them up and let dry again.
Now you are ready to paint the color coat !
You have two basic choices, Enamel, or lacquer.
Rustoleum makes lacquer in black, white, clear, red, and yellow and green (I think). You can buy it at Amazon And some true value hardware stores that I know of. If you choose enamel Home Depot has loads of colors plus clear .
If you have never painted a bike before and you are o/k with the color selection you should consider using lacquer as it dries in a few minutes instead of hours so you can do a whole job in one day instead of close to a week with enamel. Also it cures much faster. Enamel takes weeks to harden thoroughly. with either paint use a respirator if you can, paint out doors, and at the least wear a 3m dust mask . Also , wear a baseball cap to keep a stray hair from falling into the paint.
With either paint multiple light coats to avoid runs. When you have the color on a light sanding with 1000 grit wet sandpaper and then wipe down again with a clean tack rag then spray a couple coats of clear and you will have a nice paint job.
here is a tip. Before spraying take the can inside and run it under hot water for a couple minutes. this will warm the paint and increase the pressure giving a better spray. Don't over do it. don't want the can to explode do we!