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Old 05-10-19 | 09:07 AM
  #4  
Metaluna
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,224
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From: New Hampshire

Bikes: Niner RLT 9 RDO, Niner RLT9 Alloy

Originally Posted by Brad Bike
Thanks, that worked! It takes a 10mm hex key. I still don't understand what the pin holes are for, but I didn't have any trouble removing the crank otherwise. I appreciate the assist.
That crank looks like it uses a GXP-style bottom bracket. GXP cranks are self extracting, meaning that the main fixing bolt is held captivated by an outer cover that screws into the left crankarm, similiarly to the way a square-taper crank puller works. In your picture, the cover is the part that has the pin holes and torque specs printed on it. So I'd guess that the outer cover is removed by a pin spanner, while the fixing bolt is turned by a 10mm hex. My GXP cranks use a 10mm for the outer cover and 8mm for the bolt, so no special tools are needed. Fortunately you usually don't need to remove this cap unless you need to replace the fixing bolt (given the crazy high torque that the GXP fixing bolt requires, it probably needs to be replaced periodically if you take the cranks apart a lot).

P.S. if you continue to have noise issues with your BB30, there are a number of anti-creak bottom brackets out there. The Praxis conversion BB is excellent, as is the Wheels Mfg thread-together one.

https://praxiscycles.com/product/conv-bb-sram-gxp-road/
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