I have a Felt FC frameset with a 2012 SRAM Force crankset (BB30) that has been making a hell of a lot of creaking/groaning noises over the past few rides. I'd like to check out the bearings to make sure they are intact and hopefully just add some grease. How do I remove the crankset? I've never removed one before, but would love to learn. Do I need to use a pin spanner on the non-drive side or can I just use an allen key? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!



Non-drive side showing hex fitting and pin spanner holes


Drive side

I assume the non-drive side takes an 8mm hex wrench like the SRAMs I have, so just loosen that and the arm will come off. Then pull (or tap if necessary) the drive side out.

Thanks, that worked! It takes a 10mm hex key. I still don't understand what the pin holes are for, but I didn't have any trouble removing the crank otherwise. I appreciate the assist.

That crank looks like it uses a GXP-style bottom bracket. GXP cranks are self extracting, meaning that the main fixing bolt is held captivated by an outer cover that screws into the left crankarm, similiarly to the way a square-taper crank puller works. In your picture, the cover is the part that has the pin holes and torque specs printed on it. So I'd guess that the outer cover is removed by a pin spanner, while the fixing bolt is turned by a 10mm hex. My GXP cranks use a 10mm for the outer cover and 8mm for the bolt, so no special tools are needed. Fortunately you usually don't need to remove this cap unless you need to replace the fixing bolt (given the crazy high torque that the GXP fixing bolt requires, it probably needs to be replaced periodically if you take the cranks apart a lot).

P.S. if you continue to have noise issues with your BB30, there are a number of anti-creak bottom brackets out there. The Praxis conversion BB is excellent, as is the Wheels Mfg thread-together one.

https://praxiscycles.com/product/conv-bb-sram-gxp-road/

Thanks for the excellent info, Metaluna!

Since this is a "self-extracting" crank arm, that cover plate is needed for the fixing bolt to press against as it is backed out. If that cover plate unthreads with the fixing bolt, you can't remove the crank arm. The pin holes are there to allow use of a pin spanner to keep it in place if it starts to loosen.

BTW, greasing the inside of the cover plate and the fixing bolt head will help assure the cover plate doesn't back out with the fixing bolt in the future.