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Old 08-01-19 | 10:01 PM
  #16  
Bike Jedi
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 195
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Originally Posted by wesmamyke
I'll second this advice, stem face plates and disc rotors specifically. Adding that with stems also look at the gap left around each side. You can easily have the same torque but have the thing all sorts of crooked.

If you have no experience with this stuff a small preset torque driver for stem bolts can be very helpful. That would be something around 5nm, although they make 4.5nm, 6nm, etc. I use one set around 6nm for disc rotor bolts, helps keep rotors from warping.

Also I would lean towards very tight on a BB, not hand tight. You are not going to strip it out, That would be very hard to do. However having it come loose will very easily damage things. The tool interface will generally fail first if someone is way over tightening a bottom bracket.

Edit: When folks say they stripped the BB, they almost always mean they wrecked the splines for the tool. And you should always start a BB by hand, the only danger is cross threading it in the first couple turns. After it's threaded in smoothly by hand about half way, go to town with a big wrench/ratchet/torque wrench.
I think everything you said here is right on the money. When I put my BB in the last bike, I did actually go fairly well tight also. I can't remember the videos I watched at the time, but they pretty much said the same thing you said and that's what I did.
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