Originally Posted by
Rocket-Sauce
This might be a dumb question....
So I am supposed to cut the old fork right?
Any guidelines on how much to cut off? Or where? Or am I missing some obvious way to get it to slide over the old threads?
First, let's be sure you have the headset cups installed correctly. The cups are slightly different for the top and bottom. The easiest way to determine which is which is that in the installed orientation the text will be right side up. Based on your picture, it appears that you have the lower cup installed in the top cup's spot.
Second, the quill/upper race portion of the conversion headset is threaded internally. You should be able to, with only hand force, screw that portion onto your fork's threads. This is the feature that will allow you to preload your headset bearings. If for some reason it will not thread on smoothly, first check that you have 1"-24 threads (you should unless you have a fairly uncommon bike). Next, check that the threads don't have any obvious damage. If they do, a 60° miniature file can be used to clean them up, or go to a shop with the proper threading die.
Third, judging by your pic, your steerer tube may need to be trimmed in order for the INNI headset to fit. In my early posts I detail how the measurements necessary for proper function. I can walk you through that in more detail if necessary. Please confirm the numbers before cutting if there is any doubt!
Originally Posted by
Rocket-Sauce
Also, how do I cut the "steer tube" extension so I can get that slammed look? There seems to be a seam at the perfect spot, and looking at the drawings above, it seems like it should separate there.
Sorry for being so dense....
These are great questions that highlight how badly I need put together a video showing the full installation.
While that seam may look to be at the perfect spot, I highly doubt you have a stem with a clamp zone that short. That said, the shortest stem clamp height for which the tube can be trimmed is 38mm. Most stems will be 40-42mm at the steerer clamp, though. When trimming, you'll want to take into account the height of the 6mm hex cap as ideally it will be flush with the stem after trimming. It is the same diameter as the steerer tube portion to allow for this:
- To shorten conversion quill assembly, first determine ideal height of stem. If using spacers, install them under the stem to ensure exact height. Mark top of stem position on conversion quill tube.
- Remove conversion quill from fork, remove top cap assembly and wedge, clamp in cutting guide, and cut 2.5mm +0/-0.5mm below marked line using hacksaw.
- Deburr cut edges with file, deburring tool, sharp knife, or sandpaper.
As far as the headset separating at that seam, that's where the quill and upper race are bonded together. I can't internally thread the upper race with the quill extending through it so it is made in two pieces.