Yes - very nice!
I agree with others - keep the fork. I like modern components but I don't think that the expense of a carbon fork will be worth it -might save a few grams (and look pretty cool on an old frame with original paint) but actually provide a harsher ride than that nice steel fork (531 steel?) you have now with the 'flick' or curve at at the bottom.
Here's my suggestion - which I've recommended many times before to other posters:
650b wheels - this will allow for larger tires - maybe 35 to 38mm. Measure a distance of 320mm from the front and rear axle to the choke points (fork crown, chain stays, seat stays). The distance between the forks, chain stays, and seat stays will tell you how wide a tire is possible with 650b. Leave yourself at least 4mm clearance on each side of the tire.
If you go 650b you will need longer-reach brakes. The Tektro 559s are a popular and affordable choice for this. Measure the reach that you actually need before buying (brake bolt hole to the rim) - you may be able to use a 'medium-reach' brake or there is a small possibility that you would need something longer than the 73mm max. that the 559s provide. This question should be answered BEFORE you decide to use 650b wheels. You'll need to make sure that your brake levers work with the new brakes (long pull vs. short pull).
If you can fit a 130mm hub between the rear dropouts I'd go with a 2x10 drivetrain with a super compact crank. An MTB crank with something like 40/28 and a 10 speed cassette with 11/32 or 11/34 is nice if you have hills. Flatter terrain or stronger rider might go with a 46/30 crank (the new Shimano GRX 10 speed gravel components are reasonably priced). You'll need a new RD, but the original FD might work if you are friction shifting the FD. I like Shimano 10 speed indexed downtube shifters - but they only work with a road RD. If you are going to use brifters then you should consult your vendor (or BF) to make sure all your new parts are compatible.
For the stem you can use a threadless adapter in order to be able to use 31.8 bars and a threadless stem with a removable faceplate. Or, you could re-use the existing 1" threaded stem and bars - or a Nitto Technomic (tall) stem with original bars or new bars that are 26.0(?)mm like the original. Another option - Velo Orange makes a cool 1" threaded stem with a removable face plate - a bit pricey but nice quality and less ugly than a threadless adapter.
https://velo-orange.com/collections/...ceplate-31-8mm
You can re-use the seat post and whatever seat you want.
Get some fenders that are about 10 to 15mm wider than your new tires. Your frame and fork are ready to accept these. Fender installation requires some fiddling and patience. Good fenders come with a bag of hardware that should cover all of the possible challenges.
How much stuff do you want to carry on this bike? This is not a touring rig or an 'adventure' bike - light/medium loads only. Perhaps a front rack with a bag of some sort. Here's one possibility that should be fairly easy to fit - but this means installing fender stays and the bottom connection for this rack into the lone eyelet near the dropouts on your fork.
https://velo-orange.com/collections/racks/products/vo-
constructeur-front-rack
Basically, I'm recommending a randonneur-style bike. I simply like the looks and function of that style. However, my ideas are adding some weight to your bike - but to me that doesn't matter. If done this way the completed bike would probably weight in the neighborhood of 28 to 30#.
So, these are my ideas - there are plenty of other possibilities.