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Old 12-16-20 | 10:13 AM
  #234  
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joejack951
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,103
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From: Wilmington, DE

Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)

Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Please dont take my response as indication that I dislike the spacers. I think they are a fantastic bit of engineering. I always wondered why typical threadless conversion stems werent dead flat at the bottom to allow spacers to be used for look, and spacers with a rubber ring like yours would have been perfect for that application too since it removes the jingling.

I think the headset is awesome. Funny enough, its my most expensive headset, but its on the bike attached to my trainer right now. That bike does get the most 'miles' right now though, so i guess it could be said the headset is on the bike I use the most!
Next spring Ill most likely cut it down a bit since i positioned it at near the top of the full extension and havent gotten around to cutting. Gonna have to reference the video for that since I assume its more involved than just cutting a normal steerer.

Too much rambling- the spacers are excellent at doing what they should do- look the part and not rattle.
I should have multi-quoted! When I hear a complaint mentioned by a few different people (three in just the last few posts on this thread, plus the mechanic at my local shop) I start to consider that I need to do something different. All part of the process of product development so trust me when I say I appreciate the feedback. As long as these keep selling I'll have the opportunity to make some more tweaks for the next round of production and address this issue in particular.

It really isn't that different than cutting a typical steerer, other than the need for more accuracy. Whereas the goal of cutting a traditional threadless steerer is simply to have it end somewhere below the top of your stem (or upper spacer), with an innicycle steerer you want it to end 2-2.5mm below the top of your stem. That way when you add the top cap the cap will be flush with the top of the stem. You also just let the top cap protrude and cut the steerer right at the top of the stem. It's functional either way so how you cut it comes down to an aesthetic choice and if you feel like you may want to swap between stems with different clamp heights. To the latter point, the top cap thickness neatly makes up the difference in clamp heights between the two most common options (40 and 42mm). I went for the flush look on my Trek:

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