The modern chain is going to greatly increase running clearance inside of the front derailer cage.

I often add a bit more clearance yet by spreading the front portion of the cage. By carefully positioning the jaws of my old-fashioned duckbill plier up high, I can pull the handles apart with force and spread the cage without flaring it near the middle or at the lower edge (which would reduce downshifting authority and chain control).

I position the handles between spaces in the rear wheel spokes before pulling them apart. Done this a hundred times even on higher-end bikes from every era, and it always gives me more adjustment lattitude. It's a secret adjustment just like the beveling of sprocket teeth (which biases the position of the tips of the teeth). Adjustment like this along with narrower chain can make flawed combinations of parts work perfectly!

I generally position the front derailer outer cage plate with the tail very slightly out versus being perfectly parallel with the outer chainring. Careful sighting-down of these parts can be critically important, just as when verifying chainline.
Also super-important that the chainrings run true, that the arms are tight and that the bb has no play in it.