Originally Posted by
Doug Fattic
While it is possible to use frame tubing (of course as a framebuilding teacher I have hundreds of short pieces of scraps), they are a bit of a sloppy fit. The very best option is to use steel tubing that has a wall thickness of 0.058". The outside diameter (ø) will be 1/8" larger than the tube you are placing this tool on top of. For example if you are using the tool on a 1 1/8" down tube, the tool itself would have an OD of 1 3/8" with a wall thickness of 0.058". This is commonly available tubing from steel tubing suppliers. For example Wicks Aircraft or Airport Spruce are 2 examples of places that sell 4130 tubing in those wall thickness. They sell it by the foot (or more). The purpose of 0.058" wall tubing is because they are a slip fit that can create telescoping tubing with just the right amount of clearance so the smaller tube can fit and move inside a bigger one. I don't know anything about and have never tried to use plastic tubing. It will work if a split piece fits snuggly on top of a tube.
So basically the idea is to establish an accurate annular ring around the tubing to measure off from? Hmm, I'm going to try something, hopefully it works. Plumbing pipe will not, as you point out, snugly fit the tubing diameter except by accident. That said, I just got back from Home Depot, making some minor purchases, and I brought home one of those snap-on plastic covers for shower curtain rods. They have what looks like a good squared-off machine-cut end, and the smallest diameter is going to be smaller than the smallest tubing I'll encounter other than stays. Might need to cut two sections, one from each end, to overlap if a section of tubing like the head tube is greater than the rod cover's "max". If it does not work I am out only a couple of dollars (and I use them as friction-reducing covers on closet hanger rods anyway!)
Originally Posted by
tiger1964
DT decal including clear surround is 10-1/8" long by 1-3/8" high. DT lug-to-lug is 22-1/2" long so I figured 6-3/16 at each end beyond the decal -- smack into the bottle bosses. centering between bottle bosses and shifter bosses means only 3-1/2" from the lug (measured from most-scooped-out point). Too far "up"? I thought about moving it down into the water boss area but-- DT diameter is 1.1305" so circumference is about 3-9/16". Two decals at 1-3/8" high means only about 3/8" open space between decals at the top, and again at the bottom. It's gonna be fun measuring that accurately as it is. But if I slide down into the bottle boss area, the boss measures 27/64", I'm right on an "interference fit". and, anyway, the decal will be visually "obscured" more the closer to a water bottle it gets. Inclined to mount the decals in the higher position.
And Doh!
It occurred to me to check my computer's (skimpy) collection of stored photos and I find I have two of the bike before stripping; the decals were in the higher position between the shift bosses and bottle bosses.
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 198? Vitus 979. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.